Wella Professionals Ultime Repair Intense Mask with AHA & Omega-9

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Exfoliates dead skin cells by disrupting desmosomal adhesion bonds, brightens skin tone, stimulates collagen production, and improves product active penetration through the exfoliated sc.

Why It's Used: Aha exfoliation is the most evidence-backed chemical exfoliation mechanism with 30+ years of clinical use data; different acid sizes allow formulators to select penetration depth and intensity for specific skin types.

How It Works: Aha carboxylic groups donate h⁺ disrupting ca²⁺ coordination of desmoglein desmosomal proteins at formulation ph 3–4, weakening corneocyte cohesion. smaller ahas (glycolic, mw 76) penetrate fastest; larger (mandelic, mw 152) penetrate slower for gentler exfoliation.

Typically Found In: Exfoliating toners,aha serums,anti-aging

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Brightening,collagen stimulation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. ph must be ≤4.0 for aha activity.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycolic acid is the most clinically studied aha; mandelic and lactic are preferred for sensitive or darker skin types from their larger molecular weight and slower penetration kinetics.

Last Verified: Cosing database,aha aha exfoliant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides soft, lasting rose-floral fragrance note.

Why It's Used: Essential rose fragrance monoterpene for lasting smooth floral notes in high-quality perfumery and cosmetic fragrances.

How It Works: Allylic alcohol monoterpene provides fixative property in fragrance blends. good skin substantivity for lasting scent. softer, rounder rose note vs geraniol's fresher character. natural in rose otto at 18-34%.

Typically Found In: Rose perfumes,floral fragrances,luxury skincare

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – monoterpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from rose, geranium, citronella oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Citronellol's r-enantiomer (natural) vs s-enantiomer (synthetic) provide meaningfully different scent character – a remarkable demonstration of chiral scent discrimination by olfactory receptors. the (r) form provides the characteristic rose note while the (s) form has a distinctly different, less pleasant character. this enantiomeric scent difference means that the biological handedness of naturally-sourced vs racemic synthetic citronellol produces perceptibly different fragrance quality.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides nmf conditioning with copper-chelating antioxidant and uv-absorbing activity from imidazole ring.

Why It's Used: Antioxidant nmf amino acid — histidine's imidazole ring provides unique copper-chelating antioxidant activity alongside nmf hydration and uv absorption not available from other nmf amino acids.

How It Works: Imidazole ring chelates cu²⁺ and fe²⁺ for antioxidant metal chelation (inhibiting fenton reaction). uv absorption at 211nm provides partial photoprotection. precursor for carnosine (with beta-alanine) for anti-glycation. nmf component via imidazole + carboxylate water binding.

Typically Found In: Antioxidant skincare,anti-aging products,nmf moisturisers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – imidazole amino acid

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Histidine's imidazole ring's copper chelation provides the same chemical mechanism as the pharmaceutical cuprimine (d-penicillamine) used for copper chelation therapy in wilson's disease — just with significantly lower affinity. the imidazole copper chelation prevents fenton-type radical generation from free copper ions that would otherwise catalyse hydroxyl radical production from hydrogen peroxide.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides natural phospholipid emulsification with barrier-compatible delivery and liposome-forming properties.

Why It's Used: The most biologically authentic emulsifier – identical to cell membrane composition providing barrier-compatible delivery and liposome formation unavailable from synthetic emulsifiers.

How It Works: Phosphatidylcholine (pc), phosphatidylethanolamine (pe), phosphatidylinositol (pi) mixture provides hlb 7-12 for o/w emulsification. forms liposomal bilayers for active encapsulation. pc/pe/pi composition mirrors cell membrane for barrier-compatible delivery.

Typically Found In: Natural cosmetics,liposomal products,barrier repair,penetration-enhanced formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – natural phospholipid emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – soy lecithin (vegan); egg lecithin (not vegan)

Halal Status: Conditional – soy (halal); egg (verify)

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lecithin's phospholipid composition mirrors the composition of the stratum corneum's own lamellar bodies that deliver barrier lipids to the skin surface. this structural mimicry allows lecithin-based delivery systems to integrate seamlessly with the barrier lipid structure, exploiting the same transport pathway the skin uses for its own lipid secretion.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most common natural floral-citrus fragrance note with additional anti-inflammatory properties.

Why It's Used: The most abundant fragrance terpene in nature – linalool forms the primary scent character of lavender, responsible for lavender's documented aromatherapy calming effects.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol activates gaba-a receptors for anti-anxiety activity (same receptor as benzodiazepines). inhibits glutamate-induced excitotoxicity. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition.

Typically Found In: Virtually all fragranced cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – tertiary terpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from lavender, coriander, bergamot

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen on label when >0.001% (leave-on) or >0.01% (rinse-off). ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Linalool's gaba-a receptor activation provides a pharmacological basis for lavender aromatherapy's documented anxiolytic effects. the same receptor modulation used by benzodiazepine drugs (such as diazepam) is activated by inhaled linalool vapor, providing receptor-mediated calming without the tolerance and dependence associated with pharmaceutical gaba-a modulators.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,elisabetsky et al. linalool gaba study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Gently exfoliates skin, brightens complexion, balances ph, acts as chelating agent.

Why It's Used: Gentle exfoliant for multi-aha blends; larger molecular size provides moderate exfoliation with low irritation.

How It Works: At low ph, disrupts corneocyte adhesion for gentle exfoliation. dicarboxylic acid structure enables metal chelation as formulation stabilizer.

Typically Found In: Chemical exfoliants,toners,serums,professional peels

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Chelating agent,ph adjuster,mild exfoliant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Derived from apples and other fruits or synthetically produced via maleic acid hydration.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Very well-tolerated; gentler than glycolic or lactic acid; low photosensitization.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – preferred aha for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Malic acid's molecular weight (~134 da vs 76 da for glycolic acid) provides shallower skin penetration and more superficial exfoliating action, ideal for sensitive skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,sccs aha opinion

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides deep-penetrating emolliency and penetration enhancement for co-applied actives.

Why It's Used: Penetrating emollient and penetration enhancer for formulations requiring deep emolliency or enhanced active delivery.

How It Works: Cis double bond at c9 creates a 'kink' in the chain disrupting close packing, providing liquid phase at room temperature. this molecular kink also disrupts stratum corneum lipid packing for penetration enhancement. rapid skin penetration provides 'sinking in' emolliency.

Typically Found In: Facial oils,deep penetration products,penetration-enhanced formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c18:1 omega-9 fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from olive, sunflower, and most plant oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate (penetrates comedone-prone follicles)

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Oleic acid's penetration enhancement mechanism involves its insertion into the stratum corneum lipid bilayers at the cis-double bond 'kink', disrupting the crystalline packing order and creating liquid-phase domains through which other molecules can more easily diffuse. this reversible lipid fluidization explains both oleic acid's rapid skin penetration and its capacity to enhance penetration of co-applied actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hadgraft et al. oleic acid penetration enhancement study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides documented cosmetic activity from quaternium-80.

Why It's Used: Quaternium-80 delivers formulation value through its specific biological activity and established safety and efficacy.

How It Works: Source: quaternium-80. mechanism: documented in cosmetic literature. safety: cosing-reviewed. standard cosmetic use concentrations.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations,active products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Quaternium-80 provides cosmetic activity through its characteristic mechanism. at standard concentrations it delivers documented biological activity with an established safety profile from cosmetic science literature and regulatory review.

Last Verified: Cosing database,quaternium-80 technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides endogenous-skin-identical emolliency with exceptional stability and skin compatibility.

Why It's Used: The most skin-compatible emollient – chemically identical to human sebum squalene component with outstanding tolerability across all skin types.

How It Works: Fully saturated hydrocarbon with zero oxidation sites provides exceptional stability unlike squalene's 6 double bonds. integrates into stratum corneum lipid bilayers with near-perfect biocompatibility. provides antioxidant protection to formulation via radical quenching.

Typically Found In: Facial oils,serums,non-comedogenic moisturizers,luxury body care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Maximum biocompatibility,antioxidant stabilizer,non-comedogenic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived (sugarcane, olive) preferred; shark liver-derived being phased out

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived

Source Notes: Sustainable plant-derived squalane from sugarcane fermentation (amyris) or olive oil fractionation is preferred over shark liver-derived. chemically identical regardless of source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Squalene constitutes approximately 12-15% of human sebum – the highest proportion of any skin lipid. topical squalane (stable, hydrogenated form) replenishes this abundant endogenous skin lipid. the complete absence of oxidizable double bonds (unlike squalene's 6 double bonds) eliminates the pro-oxidant concerns of natural squalene oxidation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,huang et al. squalane review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12