Vanicream Z-Bar Medicated Cleansing Bar

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides high-hlb o/w emulsification for stable cream formation from ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol.

Why It's Used: Classic self-emulsifying wax component for standard pharmaceutical and cosmetic cream formulation.

How It Works: 20 eo units on cetearyl alcohol chain provide hlb ~15-17 for strong o/w emulsification. often pre-blended with cetearyl alcohol as 'emulsifying wax' for simplified cream making. combined low-hlb cetearyl alcohol + high-hlb ceteareth-20 forms a balanced self-emulsifying system.

Typically Found In: Classic pharmaceutical and cosmetic creams

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – ethoxylated fatty alcohol emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–8%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – peg petroleum; cetearyl vegetable

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ceteareth-20's combination with cetearyl alcohol in the classic 'emulsifying wax nf' creates what is called a 'mixed emulsifier system' where the fatty alcohol forms lamellar crystal phases that physically trap and stabilize oil droplets. this physical (lamellar crystal) + chemical (hlb balance) dual stabilization provides superior stability compared to either component alone.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty alcohol emulsification and thickening for stable, well-textured emulsions.

Why It's Used: The most widely used fatty alcohol in cosmetics – provides emulsification, thickening, and emolliency simultaneously from a single ingredient with excellent safety profile.

How It Works: Forms bilayer lamellar structures in water with emulsifiers creating a viscous structured network that thickens and stabilizes emulsions. fatty alcohol emolliency provides direct skin conditioning. bilayer formation reduces inter-droplet coalescence in emulsions.

Typically Found In: Creams,lotions,conditioners – virtually all emulsion products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – fatty alcohol emulsifier/thickener

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable or coconut/palm fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cetearyl alcohol's ability to form lamellar liquid crystal structures ('krafft phases') with water and co-emulsifiers provides not only emulsion stability but also enhanced skin penetration via the lamellar skin barrier pathway. these crystalline structures can act as a reservoir for active ingredients, slowly releasing them as the lamellar structure melts on skin contact.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Coconut acid has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,coconut acid technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the highest level of skin occlusion and wound healing protection of any cosmetic ingredient.

Why It's Used: The most effective skin barrier protection ingredient available – fda-approved otc skin protectant with unparalleled occlusive moisturization and wound healing evidence.

How It Works: Semi-solid blend of long-chain hydrocarbons creates an extremely cohesive, impermeable occlusive film. physically prevents bacterial and irritant ingress while completely preventing tewl. does not absorb into skin. promotes moist wound healing environment by maintaining wound surface hydration.

Typically Found In: Intensive moisturizers,wound healing ointments,lip balms,baby products,eczema treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – petroleum ointment base / gold-standard occlusive

Secondary Functions: Maximum occlusion,wound healing,otc skin protectant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – petroleum-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic (clinical evidence)

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Fda category i grase otc skin protectant. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Petrolatum's wound healing mechanism (moist wound healing) was first systematically studied by george winter (1962) and demonstrated that wounds heal 2× faster under occlusion than air-exposed. all subsequent wound dressings and occlusive skin treatments are based on this fundamental finding, with petrolatum remaining the most effective occlusive agent 60 years later.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda otc skin protectant monograph,winter (1962) moist wound healing study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides excellent foaming cleansing with skin-conditioning isethionate chemistry and minimal irritation.

Why It's Used: Superior mild cleansing for sensitive skin and baby products – provides the foaming performance consumers expect with dramatically reduced irritation vs sls.

How It Works: Isethionate headgroup (2-hydroxy ethane sulfonate) reduces protein binding and denaturing vs sulfate. coconut fatty acid chain provides micelle formation. skin conditioning from the isethionate's hydroxyl group. very low irritation zein test score.

Typically Found In: Gentle cleansers,baby products,sensitive skin bars,shampoos

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – isethionate surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut fatty acids + isethionate (synthetic)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sci's exceptional mildness is demonstrated by its near-zero protein denaturation in zein testing (a standard measure of surfactant aggressiveness). by comparison, sodium lauryl sulfate denatures 90% of zein protein at equivalent concentrations, while sci denatures <5%, explaining the dramatic difference in skin and eye irritation between the two surfactants.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ananthapadmanabhan et al. surfactant skin irritation review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides documented cosmetic activity from sodium isethionate.

Why It's Used: Sodium isethionate delivers formulation value through its specific biological activity and established safety and efficacy.

How It Works: Source: sodium isethionate. mechanism: documented in cosmetic literature. safety: cosing-reviewed. standard cosmetic use concentrations.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations,active products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium isethionate provides cosmetic activity through its characteristic mechanism. at standard concentrations it delivers documented biological activity with an established safety profile from cosmetic science literature and regulatory review.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sodium isethionate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Attracts and retains moisture providing skin softening and hydration.

Why It's Used: Widely used, cost-effective humectant and formulation ingredient in moisturizers, toothpastes, and personal care.

How It Works: 6 hydroxyl groups provide strong water binding through hydrogen bonding. metabolized slowly by skin as an osmolyte.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,body lotions,toothpaste,shampoos,many personal care products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – sugar alcohol humectant

Secondary Functions: Formulation solvent,viscosity modifier

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (corn, apples) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by catalytic hydrogenation of glucose. derived from corn starch or other carbohydrate sources. gras food-approved.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sorbitol's osmolyte function in cells (accumulates in response to osmotic stress) suggests it may provide protection to skin cells under dehydrating environmental conditions, complementing its well-established surface humectant activity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty acid thickening and emolliency with soap-forming emulsification when neutralized.

Why It's Used: Classic cosmetic fatty acid used in virtually all cream and lotion formulations for thickening, emolliency, and opacification.

How It Works: Forms metal soaps (sodium stearate, potassium stearate) on reaction with alkalis for self-emulsification. crystallizes in lamellar networks for thickening. waxy solid provides opacification. low-viscosity melt above 69°c for easy processing.

Typically Found In: Creams,soaps,cleansers,emulsions – foundational ingredient

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c18 saturated fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable (palm, shea, soy stearin)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Stearic acid's dual role as both an emulsifier precursor (when saponified to sodium stearate soap) and an emollient (as unmodified fatty acid) is unique among cosmetic fatty acids. in soap-based cleansers, stearic acid is intentionally partially saponified to create a balanced system: excess stearic acid provides skin-conditioning emolliency while the sodium stearate provides surfactancy – the chemical basis for 'superfatted' soaps.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12