Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

C12-15 alkyl benzoate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,c12-15 alkyl benzoate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty alcohol emulsification and thickening for stable, well-textured emulsions.

Why It's Used: The most widely used fatty alcohol in cosmetics – provides emulsification, thickening, and emolliency simultaneously from a single ingredient with excellent safety profile.

How It Works: Forms bilayer lamellar structures in water with emulsifiers creating a viscous structured network that thickens and stabilizes emulsions. fatty alcohol emolliency provides direct skin conditioning. bilayer formation reduces inter-droplet coalescence in emulsions.

Typically Found In: Creams,lotions,conditioners – virtually all emulsion products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – fatty alcohol emulsifier/thickener

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable or coconut/palm fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cetearyl alcohol's ability to form lamellar liquid crystal structures ('krafft phases') with water and co-emulsifiers provides not only emulsion stability but also enhanced skin penetration via the lamellar skin barrier pathway. these crystalline structures can act as a reservoir for active ingredients, slowly releasing them as the lamellar structure melts on skin contact.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides silicone-characteristic silky feel and skin protection with adjustable viscosity.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic silicone – sets the gold standard for silky application feel, spreadability, and skin protection in virtually all skin care categories.

How It Works: Polydimethylsiloxane chain flexibility provides extremely low surface tension and high spreadability. inert si-o backbone provides chemical stability and excellent skin tolerance. occlusive film formation reduces tewl. higher viscosity grades provide more intense conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,foundations,primers,sunscreens – nearly universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polydimethylsiloxane

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dimethicone's exceptional silky feel arises from its very low intermolecular attractive forces (weak van der waals forces due to non-polar methyl groups) that allow silicone chains to slide freely over skin. the coefficient of kinetic friction for pdms against skin (~0.04) is among the lowest of any cosmetic material – explaining why even small amounts transform product feel.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides o/w emulsification with emolliency and skin feel improvement from a natural glycerol ester.

Why It's Used: Standard cosmetic monoglyceride emulsifier – widely used for o/w cream formation with clean, natural-origin credentials and good sensory profile.

How It Works: Monoglyceride structure (one fatty acid + glycerol) provides amphiphilic hlb ~3-4 for o/w emulsification when combined with higher hlb co-emulsifiers. forms alpha-gel lamellar structure with water for emulsion stabilization. direct skin conditioning via fatty acid film.

Typically Found In: Creams,lotions,moisturizers – standard in o/w emulsions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – monoglyceride emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable glycerol and stearic acid

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glyceryl stearate's alpha-gel lamellar phase formation (distinguishable by x-ray crystallography from beta crystalline phase) provides superior emulsion stability compared to its beta crystalline form. the alpha-gel phase creates a viscoelastic network that resists droplet coalescence – the fundamental mechanism behind gms's long use as a reliable primary emulsifier.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides self-emulsifying o/w emulsification with less co-emulsifier requirement.

Why It's Used: Simplified emulsification for formulations where self-emulsification reduces complexity vs standard gms requiring hlb-matched co-emulsifier blends.

How It Works: Small amount of embedded sodium/potassium stearate soap provides in-situ hlb modification enabling self-emulsification without requiring precisely hlb-matched co-emulsifier. forms stable o/w emulsions with water alone under high-shear mixing.

Typically Found In: Simple cream formulations,single-emulsifier systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – self-emulsifying monoglyceride

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable glycerol and stearic acid

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glyceryl stearate se's built-in self-emulsification arises from the small percentage (~2-5%) of potassium stearate soap co-crystallized with the monoglyceride. this soap provides the high-hlb co-emulsifier 'partner' needed for stable o/w emulsification without requiring the formulator to select and add a separate high-hlb emulsifier – an elegant simplification of classic emulsifier hlb matching theory.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides endogenous-skin-identical emolliency with exceptional stability and skin compatibility.

Why It's Used: The most skin-compatible emollient – chemically identical to human sebum squalene component with outstanding tolerability across all skin types.

How It Works: Fully saturated hydrocarbon with zero oxidation sites provides exceptional stability unlike squalene's 6 double bonds. integrates into stratum corneum lipid bilayers with near-perfect biocompatibility. provides antioxidant protection to formulation via radical quenching.

Typically Found In: Facial oils,serums,non-comedogenic moisturizers,luxury body care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Maximum biocompatibility,antioxidant stabilizer,non-comedogenic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived (sugarcane, olive) preferred; shark liver-derived being phased out

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived

Source Notes: Sustainable plant-derived squalane from sugarcane fermentation (amyris) or olive oil fractionation is preferred over shark liver-derived. chemically identical regardless of source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Squalene constitutes approximately 12-15% of human sebum – the highest proportion of any skin lipid. topical squalane (stable, hydrogenated form) replenishes this abundant endogenous skin lipid. the complete absence of oxidizable double bonds (unlike squalene's 6 double bonds) eliminates the pro-oxidant concerns of natural squalene oxidation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,huang et al. squalane review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty acid thickening and emolliency with soap-forming emulsification when neutralized.

Why It's Used: Classic cosmetic fatty acid used in virtually all cream and lotion formulations for thickening, emolliency, and opacification.

How It Works: Forms metal soaps (sodium stearate, potassium stearate) on reaction with alkalis for self-emulsification. crystallizes in lamellar networks for thickening. waxy solid provides opacification. low-viscosity melt above 69°c for easy processing.

Typically Found In: Creams,soaps,cleansers,emulsions – foundational ingredient

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c18 saturated fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable (palm, shea, soy stearin)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Stearic acid's dual role as both an emulsifier precursor (when saponified to sodium stearate soap) and an emollient (as unmodified fatty acid) is unique among cosmetic fatty acids. in soap-based cleansers, stearic acid is intentionally partially saponified to create a balanced system: excess stearic acid provides skin-conditioning emolliency while the sodium stearate provides surfactancy – the chemical basis for 'superfatted' soaps.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12