TLC365 Salvia Skin Clarifying Serum

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, promotes skin cell renewal, and provides mild keratolytic exfoliation.

Why It's Used: Gold standard multi-function soothing active – one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients across all product types for its exceptional tolerability and clinically proven multi-action skin conditioning.

How It Works: Promotes keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast migration for wound healing. mild keratolytic activity by disrupting corneocyte binding. anti-irritant via direct protein binding and anti-inflammatory cytokine reduction. humectant activity via hydroxyl groups.

Typically Found In: Post-procedure products,sensitive skin formulas,wound care,anti-acne treatments,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,keratolytic,anti-irritant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or comfrey-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Exceptionally well-tolerated; suitable for all skin types including baby and compromised skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Allantoin's keratinocyte proliferation stimulation occurs via receptor-mediated signaling (possibly machr activation) rather than non-specific irritation-driven proliferation, making it a true wound-healing stimulant rather than a pro-inflammatory proliferative signal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,araújo et al. allantoin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides osmoprotective humectant conditioning with anti-irritant and mild foam-boosting activity.

Why It's Used: Natural-origin multifunctional osmolyte from sugar beet providing hydration, anti-irritancy, and conditioning in virtually every cosmetic category.

How It Works: Quaternary ammonium betaine provides zwitterionic character for water binding via ionic hydration. osmoprotective function at 100–500mm as compatible solute protecting cells from osmotic stress. reduces surfactant irritation by competing with sls for protein binding sites. mild foam enhancement.

Typically Found In: Virtually all categories — moisturisers, shampoos, cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from beta vulgaris (sugar beet) molasses

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Betaine's anti-irritant mechanism for surfactant systems involves competitive protein protection: betaine at high concentrations preferentially interacts with skin proteins, occupying binding sites that would otherwise be occupied by surfactant molecules causing protein denaturation. this competition reduces available protein binding for irritating surfactants, explaining betaine's well-documented ability to reduce sls irritation when co-formulated.

Last Verified: Cosing database,craig betaine osmoprotective review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the complete fragrance profile contributing to product sensory experience and consumer appeal.

Why It's Used: Fragrance is a major consumer purchase driver — up to 70% of consumers make purchasing decisions partially based on product scent.

How It Works: Fragrance blends interact with olfactory receptors providing the sensory profile — complex mixtures activate multiple receptor types for rich, multidimensional scent experiences.

Typically Found In: All fragrance products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Standard use levels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ifra guidelines set usage limits for fragrance ingredients based on skin sensitisation and phototoxicity assessment for each application category.

Last Verified: Eu regulation 1223/2009 annex iii,ifra standards,fragrance allergen declaration requirements

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glucose has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glucose technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Exfoliates dead skin cells, attracts and retains moisture, brightens skin tone, and improves texture.

Why It's Used: Dual exfoliant and humectant – uniquely hydrating vs other ahas. gentler and suitable for normal-to-sensitive skin.

How It Works: Disrupts desmosomes to promote exfoliation at low ph. acts as humectant. also stimulates ceramide synthesis at lower concentrations for barrier support.

Typically Found In: Chemical exfoliants,toners,serums,professional peels

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Humectant,brightening,barrier support,ceramide synthesis

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10% (daily); 20%–90% (professional); active at ph ≤3.9

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived from carbohydrates or synthetically produced. both l-form and dl-form used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – spf required. better tolerated than glycolic acid for most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lactic acid's role as a natural moisturizing factor (nmf) component makes it uniquely hydrating among ahas. ceramide synthesis stimulation at 2% provides barrier benefits complementing exfoliating activity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,stiller et al. lactic acid review,sccs aha opinion

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, reduces visible pore size, regulates sebum production, fades dark spots, and improves skin texture and tone.

Why It's Used: It is used because it addresses multiple skin concerns at once without irritation, making it suitable for all skin types. it is stable in formulations and pairs well with most other actives.

How It Works: Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (pigment packets) to skin cells, reducing hyperpigmentation. it also stimulates ceramide synthesis to strengthen the skin barrier and reduces inflammation by modulating cytokine activity.

Typically Found In: Serums,moisturizers,toners,cleansers,eye creams,sunscreens,primers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin

Secondary Functions: Barrier repair,brightening,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10% (typical: 5%; higher concentrations may cause flushing in some individuals)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes – synthetic origin

Source Notes: Commercially produced via synthesis from nicotinic acid or 3-cyanopyridine. no animal-derived sources used in cosmetic-grade niacinamide.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; concentrations above 10% may cause temporary flushing in sensitive individuals

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: At concentrations >10%, some users experience niacin flush (transient redness/tingling). generally very well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – one of the best-tolerated actives for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Extensively studied and considered very safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant systemic toxicity concerns at topical concentrations.

Works Well With: Retinol,peptides,ahas/bhas,hyaluronic acid,ceramides,zinc,vitamin c,spf

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of vitamin c (ascorbic acid) may theoretically convert to niacin – use at different times if using pure l-ascorbic acid above 15%

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Niacinamide is a precursor to nad+ and nadp+, coenzymes vital to cellular energy metabolism. its benefits for dna repair and mitochondrial function make it a key ingredient in anti-aging strategies.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,pubmed clinical studies

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin surface and inside pores, dissolves the 'glue' holding dead skin cells together, reduces sebum production, and combats acne-causing bacteria.

Why It's Used: Its oil solubility makes it uniquely effective at penetrating pores and dissolving sebum plugs – a function that water-soluble ahas cannot perform. it is the preferred exfoliant for oily, acne-prone, and congested skin.

How It Works: Salicylic acid disrupts desmosomal bonds between corneocytes, promoting exfoliation. its oil solubility allows it to penetrate the sebaceous follicle, dissolving sebum and dead cells. it also has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis.

Typically Found In: Cleansers,toners,serums,spot treatments,masks,chemical peels,anti-dandruff shampoos,acne treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – beta hydroxy acid (bha)

Secondary Functions: Anti-acne,anti-dandruff,keratolytic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–2% (otc acne treatment in us); up to 30% in professional chemical peels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or willow bark derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Naturally occurring in willow bark (salix alba) and wintergreen oil. commercially produced synthetically via kolbe-schmitt reaction for cosmetic use.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation, especially at higher concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually anti-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Can cause irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity. avoid contact with eyes. not recommended during pregnancy at high concentrations. can be drying – follow with moisturizer.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start with lower concentrations and frequency; may not be suitable for reactive or rosacea-prone skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations (0.5–2%). regulated as a drug in some countries (us: fda category i acne treatment). avoid in pregnancy at high concentrations.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,zinc,tea tree oil,benzoyl peroxide (at different times),hyaluronic acid (to counteract dryness)

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of retinol (cumulative irritation),multiple exfoliating acids simultaneously,benzoyl peroxide in same step (can increase irritation)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Salicylic acid is a member of the salicylate family and shares structural similarity with aspirin. its anti-inflammatory mechanism mirrors aspirin's cox inhibition pathway, making it uniquely effective for inflammatory acne.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,us fda acne monograph,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12