Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, promotes skin cell renewal, and provides mild keratolytic exfoliation.

Why It's Used: Gold standard multi-function soothing active – one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients across all product types for its exceptional tolerability and clinically proven multi-action skin conditioning.

How It Works: Promotes keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast migration for wound healing. mild keratolytic activity by disrupting corneocyte binding. anti-irritant via direct protein binding and anti-inflammatory cytokine reduction. humectant activity via hydroxyl groups.

Typically Found In: Post-procedure products,sensitive skin formulas,wound care,anti-acne treatments,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,keratolytic,anti-irritant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or comfrey-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Exceptionally well-tolerated; suitable for all skin types including baby and compromised skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Allantoin's keratinocyte proliferation stimulation occurs via receptor-mediated signaling (possibly machr activation) rather than non-specific irritation-driven proliferation, making it a true wound-healing stimulant rather than a pro-inflammatory proliferative signal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,araújo et al. allantoin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Adjusts ph to optimal ranges, chelates destabilizing metal ions, provides mild exfoliation at higher concentrations.

Why It's Used: Universal cosmetic ph adjuster and chelating agent. aha exfoliant activity is secondary.

How It Works: As ph adjuster, donates protons. as chelating agent, three carboxylic groups bind divalent metals (ca²⁺, mg²⁺, fe²⁺) preventing oxidative degradation.

Typically Found In: Nearly all cosmetic formulations,brightening products,exfoliants

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Chelating agent,ph adjustment,preservation enhancement

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by fermentation of sugars by aspergillus niger. gras (e330). most abundant organic acid in citrus.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low at low concentrations; 2/5 at exfoliant concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Three carboxylic acid groups provide multiple proton donation sites and stronger chelation than monocarboxylic ahas. this makes citric acid the preferred cosmetic chelating agent alongside edta.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides non-ionic thickening compatible with anionic surfactants and electrolyte-containing formulations.

Why It's Used: Non-ionic cellulose thickener for surfactant systems where anionic/cationic thickener incompatibility is a concern.

How It Works: Hydroxyethyl substitution disrupts cellulose crystallinity enabling water solubility. non-ionic nature provides compatibility with anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants. pseudoplastic rheology provides shear-thinning for dispensing. film formation from cellulose backbone.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,body washes,clear gels,surfactant systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – cellulose thickener

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from cellulose (plant)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydroxyethylcellulose's non-ionic character is its primary differentiator from anionic carboxymethylcellulose – the absence of ionizable groups means hec maintains stable viscosity across ph 2-12 and at high electrolyte concentrations where carboxymethylcellulose destabilizes. this ionic independence makes hec the preferred cellulose thickener for acidic and salt-containing formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ashland hec technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, reduces visible pore size, regulates sebum production, fades dark spots, and improves skin texture and tone.

Why It's Used: It is used because it addresses multiple skin concerns at once without irritation, making it suitable for all skin types. it is stable in formulations and pairs well with most other actives.

How It Works: Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (pigment packets) to skin cells, reducing hyperpigmentation. it also stimulates ceramide synthesis to strengthen the skin barrier and reduces inflammation by modulating cytokine activity.

Typically Found In: Serums,moisturizers,toners,cleansers,eye creams,sunscreens,primers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin

Secondary Functions: Barrier repair,brightening,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10% (typical: 5%; higher concentrations may cause flushing in some individuals)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes – synthetic origin

Source Notes: Commercially produced via synthesis from nicotinic acid or 3-cyanopyridine. no animal-derived sources used in cosmetic-grade niacinamide.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; concentrations above 10% may cause temporary flushing in sensitive individuals

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: At concentrations >10%, some users experience niacin flush (transient redness/tingling). generally very well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – one of the best-tolerated actives for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Extensively studied and considered very safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant systemic toxicity concerns at topical concentrations.

Works Well With: Retinol,peptides,ahas/bhas,hyaluronic acid,ceramides,zinc,vitamin c,spf

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of vitamin c (ascorbic acid) may theoretically convert to niacin – use at different times if using pure l-ascorbic acid above 15%

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Niacinamide is a precursor to nad+ and nadp+, coenzymes vital to cellular energy metabolism. its benefits for dna repair and mitochondrial function make it a key ingredient in anti-aging strategies.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,pubmed clinical studies

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Emulsifies oils into water-based formulations, solubilises lipophilic fragrance and active ingredients in aqueous systems, and provides gentle foaming surfactancy in mild cleansers.

Why It's Used: Polysorbates are fda-approved food emulsifiers (gras) providing an exceptional safety documentation base for cosmetic use, and their high hlb (14–17) makes them highly efficient o/w emulsifiers at low concentrations.

How It Works: Sorbitan ring + 20–80 mol ethylene oxide + fatty acid provides amphiphilic block structure. high hlb (polysorbate 20: hlb 16.7; polysorbate 80: hlb 15.0) positions them at the o/w interface with the peo chain extending into the water phase forming steric emulsion stabilisation. cmc ~0.01–0.1 mm enables efficient solubilisation at low concentrations.

Typically Found In: Emulsions,fragrance solubilisation,cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polysorbate number (20, 40, 60, 80) indicates the fatty acid chain: 20 = laurate (c12); 40 = palmitate (c16); 60 = stearate (c18:0); 80 = oleate (c18:1). the oleate chain of polysorbate 80 provides better cold stability from the cis double bond preventing crystallisation at refrigerator temperatures.

Last Verified: Cosing database,polysorbate sorbitan ethoxylate emulsifier review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Simultaneously regulates sebum and hydrates via nmf-pca component for oily-dehydrated combination skin.

Why It's Used: Unique dual-function ingredient addressing the paradox of oily-yet-dehydrated skin with sebum control (zinc) + nmf hydration (pca) from one molecule.

How It Works: Zinc ion component inhibits 5-alpha-reductase and p. acnes. pca component provides nmf-type humectant hydration. combined in the zinc-pca salt for simultaneous delivery of both activities.

Typically Found In: Combination skin products,anti-acne moisturizers,oily skin hydration

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – zinc nmf complex

Secondary Functions: Sebum control,nmf hydration,anti-acne

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – mineral/inorganic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Mineral/inorganic compound. cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating at recommended concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at recommended concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,salicylic acid,other actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The combination of sebum regulation and nmf hydration in zinc pca addresses the clinically common oily-dehydrated skin phenotype, where excess sebum is accompanied by inadequate water binding in the stratum corneum – a condition poorly served by either humectants (worsen oiliness) or astringents alone.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,basf zinc pca technical data

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12