SOS Serum

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, promotes skin cell renewal, and provides mild keratolytic exfoliation.

Why It's Used: Gold standard multi-function soothing active – one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients across all product types for its exceptional tolerability and clinically proven multi-action skin conditioning.

How It Works: Promotes keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast migration for wound healing. mild keratolytic activity by disrupting corneocyte binding. anti-irritant via direct protein binding and anti-inflammatory cytokine reduction. humectant activity via hydroxyl groups.

Typically Found In: Post-procedure products,sensitive skin formulas,wound care,anti-acne treatments,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Wound healing,keratolytic,anti-irritant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or comfrey-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Exceptionally well-tolerated; suitable for all skin types including baby and compromised skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Allantoin's keratinocyte proliferation stimulation occurs via receptor-mediated signaling (possibly machr activation) rather than non-specific irritation-driven proliferation, making it a true wound-healing stimulant rather than a pro-inflammatory proliferative signal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,araújo et al. allantoin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function — skin conditioning, protection, preservation, or active biological benefit — at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for its functional contribution and formulation compatibility — supported by cosmetic science literature and regulatory safety assessment.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical interaction with the formulation or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Chamomile delivers documented functional benefit with an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework (cosing eu, cir usa).

Last Verified: Cosing database,chamomile technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Brightens skin and reduces hyperpigmentation through glabridin tyrosinase inhibition while calming inflammation.

Why It's Used: Combined brightening + soothing in one botanical – ideal for hyperpigmentation with skin reactivity where brightening actives (ahas, retinoids) increase sensitivity.

How It Works: Glabridin inhibits uvb-induced melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity. isoliquiritigenin inhibits melanocyte-stimulating hormone (msh). glycyrrhizinic acid inhibits prostaglandin synthesis for anti-inflammatory activity. licochalcone a inhibits nf-kb.

Typically Found In: Brightening serums,anti-inflammatory formulas,post-sun products,sensitive skin brightening

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Glabridin tyrosinase inhibition,anti-inflammatory,post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – glycyrrhiza glabra root-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glabridin's tyrosinase inhibition mechanism differs from both kojic acid (copper chelation) and arbutin (substrate competition) – it inhibits the enzyme's catalytic conformation without substrate competition, providing a third distinct brightening mechanism suitable for formulation with the other inhibitor types for synergistic brightening.

Last Verified: Cosing database,yokota et al. glabridin study,plenkov et al. licorice review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, reduces visible pore size, regulates sebum production, fades dark spots, and improves skin texture and tone.

Why It's Used: It is used because it addresses multiple skin concerns at once without irritation, making it suitable for all skin types. it is stable in formulations and pairs well with most other actives.

How It Works: Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (pigment packets) to skin cells, reducing hyperpigmentation. it also stimulates ceramide synthesis to strengthen the skin barrier and reduces inflammation by modulating cytokine activity.

Typically Found In: Serums,moisturizers,toners,cleansers,eye creams,sunscreens,primers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin

Secondary Functions: Barrier repair,brightening,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–10% (typical: 5%; higher concentrations may cause flushing in some individuals)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes – synthetic origin

Source Notes: Commercially produced via synthesis from nicotinic acid or 3-cyanopyridine. no animal-derived sources used in cosmetic-grade niacinamide.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; concentrations above 10% may cause temporary flushing in sensitive individuals

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: At concentrations >10%, some users experience niacin flush (transient redness/tingling). generally very well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – one of the best-tolerated actives for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Extensively studied and considered very safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant systemic toxicity concerns at topical concentrations.

Works Well With: Retinol,peptides,ahas/bhas,hyaluronic acid,ceramides,zinc,vitamin c,spf

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of vitamin c (ascorbic acid) may theoretically convert to niacin – use at different times if using pure l-ascorbic acid above 15%

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Niacinamide is a precursor to nad+ and nadp+, coenzymes vital to cellular energy metabolism. its benefits for dna repair and mitochondrial function make it a key ingredient in anti-aging strategies.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,pubmed clinical studies

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides 4-5× greater water retention than hyaluronic acid for unmatched skin hydration.

Why It's Used: The most powerful humectant available – 4-5× the water-binding capacity of ha – for formulations requiring maximum hydration intensity in a single ingredient.

How It Works: High density of free glutamic acid carboxylate groups provides exceptional water binding capacity (~5000× its dry weight in water, vs ha's ~1000×). forms thin hydrating film on skin surface. inhibits hyaluronidase, protecting endogenous ha from degradation. also promotes ha synthesis.

Typically Found In: Premium hydrating serums,ultra-hydration products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – microbial humectant

Secondary Functions: Maximum water retention,ha protection,film forming

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – bacillus subtilis fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Pga's water-holding capacity of ~5000g water/g pga (vs ha's ~1000g water/g) derives from its exceptionally dense carboxylate group array. the glutamic acid polymer backbone provides a carboxylate group every ~0.37nm along the chain – the highest density of water-binding anionic groups achievable in a linear biopolymer structure.

Last Verified: Cosing database,shen et al. polyglutamic acid cosmetic review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most potent single-plant broad-spectrum antimicrobial essential oil for skin antiseptic applications.

Why It's Used: The antimicrobial essential oil – tea tree oil's terpinen-4-ol provides clinically proven broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity in rct-level clinical studies for acne and mrsa decolonisation.

How It Works: Terpinen-4-ol (30-48%) provides membrane-disrupting antimicrobial activity vs gram+/- bacteria, fungi, and enveloped viruses. iso 4730 requires minimum 30% terpinen-4-ol and maximum 5% 1,8-cineole (sensitiser). anti-biofilm activity vs staphylococcus.

Typically Found In: Anti-acne products,antiseptic formulas,natural antimicrobials,scalp treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Redness reduction,anti-inflammatory,calming

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from melaleuca alternifolia leaves (australia)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Iso 4730:2017 quality standard defines authentic tea tree oil. can cause contact sensitisation at high concentrations. toxic if ingested.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Randomised controlled trial comparison of 5% tea tree oil gel vs 5% benzoyl peroxide lotion for acne demonstrated equivalent efficacy for acne lesion reduction at 3 months. tea tree's slower onset (8 weeks vs 4 weeks for bpo) was offset by significantly fewer side effects (dryness, irritation, peeling) in the tto group – providing evidence-based support for clinical tto use as a well-tolerated bpo alternative.

Last Verified: Cosing database,bassett et al. tea tree oil acne rct,iso 4730

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12