Sébium Hydra

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Creates a smooth, silky skin feel, reduces friction, and forms a breathable film on skin that enhances product application and wear.

Why It's Used: Silicones provide unmatched aesthetic elegance, thermal stability, and formulation flexibility that enhance both consumer experience and product performance.

How It Works: Siloxane backbone provides a flexible, chemically inert polymer that forms thin, breathable films on skin surface, filling surface irregularities and providing low surface energy for exceptional slip and spreadability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,primers,foundations,sunscreens,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Silicones

Secondary Functions: Emollient,film former

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic silicone polymer; not plant-derived but generally considered vegan.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Other emollients,uv filters,pigments

Avoid Combining With: Silicone-sensitive formulations; biodegradability concerns in eco-formulations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Silicone polymers are poly(dimethylsiloxane) backbones with si-o bond energy (105 kcal/mol) significantly higher than c-c (83 kcal/mol), providing exceptional thermal and oxidative stability. the low surface energy (21 mn/m vs 30+ mn/m for organic polymers) accounts for silicone's unique slip feel, and the si-o bond's flexibility (rotation barrier ~0.3 kcal/mol) enables fluid behavior across wide temperature ranges.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant, co-solvent, and fragrance fixative in cosmetic formulations, improving active ingredient dissolution and product texture while delivering mild skin conditioning.

Why It's Used: Glycol solvents are essential for dissolving actives with limited water or oil solubility — the intermediate polarity of glycol ethers provides access to the wider solubility parameter space between pure water and oil phases.

How It Works: Hydroxyl and ether groups provide h-bonding for water miscibility; the organic chain provides compatibility with lipophilic actives. medium-chain glycols (c3–c6) provide the optimal balance of water compatibility, lipophilic active dissolution, and skin-compatible humectancy.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations,co-solvent systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycol ether co-solvents enhance sc penetration of co-applied actives by increasing their thermodynamic activity in the sc lipid phase — high thermodynamic activity (near saturation) drives diffusion by concentration gradient even when absolute concentration is low.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dipropylene glycol glycol solvent review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylhexyl palmitate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ethylhexyl palmitate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides ultra-lightweight dry-touch emolliency with excellent pigment dispersion for lightweight formulations.

Why It's Used: Premium lightweight emollient for dry-touch formulations — isohexadecane's highly branched structure provides the lightest, driest application feel of common cosmetic hydrocarbons.

How It Works: Highly branched c16 isoparaffin provides very low surface tension for fast spreading. completely non-polar structure provides no water retention (dry feel). excellent pigment wetting for colour cosmetics. very low viscosity (2.5 cst) for fluid application.

Typically Found In: Lightweight foundations,sunscreens,colour cosmetics,dry-touch products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – branched hydrocarbon emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic hydrocarbon

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Isohexadecane's highly branched structure (methyl-substituted hexadecane) prevents the close molecular packing that creates liquid crystalline phases in linear hydrocarbons, resulting in a permanently disordered liquid state with very low viscosity and surface tension. this structural disorder from branching is the molecular basis for the lighter, faster-spreading application feel vs equivalent linear hydrocarbons.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Lotions,creams,serums,masks

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Minerals

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Mineral-derived ingredient; no biological origin.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Plant extracts,peptides,vitamins

Avoid Combining With: Strong chelating agents (reduce mineral availability)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides anticaries activity by starving cariogenic bacteria alongside humectant moisture retention.

Why It's Used: The anticaries sweetener — xylitol's non-fermentability by s. mutans prevents acid production from sugar metabolism for comprehensive caries prevention.

How It Works: S. mutans transports xylitol into cell via glucose transporter. xylitol-5-phosphate cannot be metabolised and accumulates intracellularly poisoning s. mutans. non-fermentability prevents acid production. stimulates saliva flow for natural remineralisation.

Typically Found In: Toothpaste,mouthwash,sugar-free gum,oral care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – dental anticaries sugar alcohol

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from birch or corn cob

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Highly toxic to dogs — xylitol causes hypoglycemia. safe for humans at typical doses.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Xylitol's toxicity to s. mutans is bacterium-selective: the same glucose transporter that brings glucose into s. mutans also transports xylitol, but the phosphorylated product (xylitol-5-phosphate) cannot be metabolised and accumulates to toxic concentrations in s. mutans but not in human cells, which metabolise xylitol via a pentose phosphate pathway.

Last Verified: Cosing database,mäkinen xylitol caries review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12