Sébium Exfoliating Gel

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides rapid-acting prebiotic microbiome support with humectant conditioning from short-chain fructan oligomers.

Why It's Used: Fast-acting prebiotic for rapid microbiome support — fos's shorter chain length provides faster fermentation by beneficial bacteria vs long-chain inulin, enabling quicker microbiome compositional shifts.

How It Works: Dp 2-10 fructooligomers (vs inulin's dp 10-60) provide more rapid access to bacterial fermentation enzymes. higher water solubility and humectant activity than long-chain inulin. more bioavailable to skin surface bacteria vs longer-chain inulin that penetrates deeper before fermentation.

Typically Found In: Prebiotic skin care,rapid microbiome support products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – short-chain prebiotic

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from sucrose enzymatic synthesis or inulin hydrolysis

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Fos's shorter chain length provides different prebiotic kinetics vs long-chain inulin: short-chain fos (dp 2-5) is fermented within 12-24 hours by surface bacteria, while long-chain inulin (dp 10-60) ferments over 48-72 hours. this temporal difference enables formulation of 'fast-acting' (fos) vs 'sustained-release' (inulin) prebiotic products with different microbiome support kinetics.

Last Verified: Cosing database,roberfroid fos prebiotic review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ginkgo biloba leaf extract botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides mild, naturally-derived cleansing with excellent biodegradability from glucose and lauryl alcohol.

Why It's Used: The natural cleansing standard — lauryl glucoside's combination of renewability, biodegradability, mildness, and foaming makes it the benchmark natural surfactant for clean beauty facial cleansers.

How It Works: C12 alkyl chain provides cmc and foaming. glucose head group provides mild non-ionic/weakly anionic character from hydroxyl groups. very low irritation potential from polyol head group. excellent biodegradability >95% bod28 from glucoside hydrolysis. cosmos approved.

Typically Found In: Natural facial cleansers,baby shampoos,cosmos certified products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – alkyl glucoside surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn glucose + coconut lauryl alcohol

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lauryl glucoside's mildness vs sls at equivalent foam performance is measurable by draize eye score: sls scores approximately 55 (mild irritant) while lauryl glucoside scores <15 (essentially non-irritant) in identical eye irritation testing. this quantitative mildness advantage explains why apg surfactants command premium pricing despite renewable/natural origin — actual performance superiority justifies the cost.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cosmos standard,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides exceptional hydroxyl radical scavenging antioxidant protection alongside humectant moisture retention.

Why It's Used: Used for potent hydroxyl radical scavenging where standard antioxidants (tocopherol, ascorbic acid) are less effective, combined with humectant activity.

How It Works: 6 hydroxyl groups provide both water binding (humectant) and direct hydroxyl radical (.oh) scavenging. hydroxyl radicals are the most reactive and damaging free radicals – mannitol is one of few compounds that scavenges them directly.

Typically Found In: Antioxidant formulations,premium moisturizers,protective skincare

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – sugar alcohol / free radical scavenger

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenger,superior antioxidant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived from ash tree manna, seaweed, mushrooms, or produced by reduction of mannose. gras food-approved.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mannitol's rate constant for hydroxyl radical scavenging (k = 1.4 × 10^7 m^-1s^-1) makes it one of the most effective biological hydroxyl radical scavengers. this is important because hydroxyl radicals cannot be scavenged by standard antioxidants like tocopherol or ascorbic acid.

Last Verified: Cosing database,halliwell et al. free radical scavenging,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polyethylene has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,polyethylene technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function — skin conditioning, antioxidant protection, active biological benefit, or formulation function — at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Rhamnose has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,rhamnose technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides excellent foam and cleansing with significantly lower irritation than sls.

Why It's Used: The dominant primary surfactant in mainstream personal care – improved mildness over sls while retaining excellent foam and cleansing performance.

How It Works: Ethoxylation (2-3 eo units) inserts polyethylene oxide spacer between dodecyl chain and sulfate, sterically shielding sulfate from direct protein contact, reducing irritation vs sls. full micellar cleansing capacity retained.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,body washes,facial cleansers,household cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – ethoxylated anionic surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Ethoxylation process can generate trace 1,4-dioxane impurity – reputable manufacturers purify to <1ppm. look for sles certified with dioxane specification.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate (significantly milder than sls)

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-established safety. ewg score: 3 (1,4-dioxane impurity concern – use sles from ethoxylation with purification confirmation).

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sles's reduced irritation vs sls directly correlates with the degree of ethoxylation – sles-2 (2 eo units) is milder than sls but not as mild as sles-3 (3 eo units). each ethylene oxide unit adds steric shielding around the sulfate group, progressively reducing its protein-binding and denaturation capacity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ananthapadmanabhan et al. surfactant review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides pseudoplastic thickening and emulsion/suspension stabilization across broad ph and salt conditions.

Why It's Used: The most versatile cosmetic thickener – pseudoplastic behavior (shear-thinning) provides ideal pump dispensing while maintaining in-use viscosity, stable across ph 2-12 and in high-salt formulations.

How It Works: Helix-coil conformational transitions provide pseudoplastic (shear-thinning) rheology. electrostatic repulsion between negatively charged chains provides thickening without cross-linking. stable across ph 2-12 and at nacl concentrations up to saturation.

Typically Found In: Virtually all aqueous cosmetic products requiring viscosity control

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – microbial polysaccharide thickener

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – microbial fermentation (xanthomonas campestris)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Xanthan gum's pseudoplastic behavior arises from helix alignment under shear (reducing viscosity) that recovers to random coil entanglement at rest (restoring viscosity). the 100-1000× viscosity reduction during pumping vs at rest makes xanthan the ideal pump-dispensing thickener – providing both easy dispensing and in-use viscosity that neither purely viscous nor elastic thickeners can achieve simultaneously.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,fda gras

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides anticaries activity by starving cariogenic bacteria alongside humectant moisture retention.

Why It's Used: The anticaries sweetener — xylitol's non-fermentability by s. mutans prevents acid production from sugar metabolism for comprehensive caries prevention.

How It Works: S. mutans transports xylitol into cell via glucose transporter. xylitol-5-phosphate cannot be metabolised and accumulates intracellularly poisoning s. mutans. non-fermentability prevents acid production. stimulates saliva flow for natural remineralisation.

Typically Found In: Toothpaste,mouthwash,sugar-free gum,oral care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – dental anticaries sugar alcohol

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from birch or corn cob

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Highly toxic to dogs — xylitol causes hypoglycemia. safe for humans at typical doses.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Xylitol's toxicity to s. mutans is bacterium-selective: the same glucose transporter that brings glucose into s. mutans also transports xylitol, but the phosphorylated product (xylitol-5-phosphate) cannot be metabolised and accumulates to toxic concentrations in s. mutans but not in human cells, which metabolise xylitol via a pentose phosphate pathway.

Last Verified: Cosing database,mäkinen xylitol caries review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12