Regenerating Cream Cleanser

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Ascorbic acid neutralizes free radicals, stimulates collagen production, inhibits melanin synthesis for a brighter complexion, and supports skin repair.

Why It's Used: It is used because it offers comprehensive antioxidant and brightening benefits supported by extensive clinical evidence. it is the most bioavailable form of vitamin c for topical application.

How It Works: As an antioxidant, it donates electrons to neutralize reactive oxygen species. it is an essential cofactor for the hydroxylation of proline and lysine in collagen synthesis. it inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, reducing hyperpigmentation.

Typically Found In: Vitamin c serums,brightening moisturizers,antioxidant formulations,spf products,eye creams

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin c

Secondary Functions: Collagen booster,tyrosinase inhibitor,ph adjuster

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–20% (effective range: 10–20%; ph must be below 3.5 for activity)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced or corn/plant-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced by reichstein synthesis or guangxi fermentation process from glucose. some plant-derived versions exist.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate; low ph formulations can cause initial tingling or stinging, especially at concentrations above 15%

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Acidic ph can irritate sensitive or compromised skin barriers. highly unstable – oxidizes rapidly when exposed to air, light, and heat (turns orange/brown). use in the morning under spf.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start at lower concentrations (5–10%). stabilized derivative forms (vitamin c derivatives) may be better tolerated.

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Very safe; well-studied. key concern is formulation stability, not safety. ewg hazard score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin e (tocopherol) – synergistic antioxidant effect,ferulic acid – stabilizing and boosting,spf,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide (use at different times if concentrations are high)

Avoid Combining With: Retinol (use at separate times – ph incompatibility),benzoyl peroxide (oxidizes vitamin c),ahas/bhas (cumulative irritation risk)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

L-ascorbic acid is the only form of vitamin c that is proven bioactive in skin at the molecular level. its instability (rapid oxidation) has driven development of numerous stable derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,pinnell et al. studies,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cetyl betaine has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cetyl betaine technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Distearyldimonium chloride has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,distearyldimonium chloride technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydrated silica has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hydrated silica technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides dry-touch protective barrier from ppg-15 stearyl ether.

Why It's Used: Dry-touch barrier emollient — ppg-15 stearyl ether occupies the emollient space between very dry esters (too little protection) and heavy oils (too greasy) for body care requiring barrier protection without tactile heaviness.

How It Works: Propylene glycol (ppg-15) + stearyl alcohol ether. dry-touch: ppg chain provides non-tacky character. protective film: stearyl component provides barrier. sun care: excellent uv filter compatibility. body care: protective moisturising. non-greasy despite barrier function.

Typically Found In: Body care protective emollient,sun care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ppg-15 stearyl ether dry-touch from ppg chain geometry: polyoxypropylene chains have methyl side groups that prevent tight molecular packing, creating a more open, less tacky film geometry vs polyoxyethylene chains (no side groups, tight packing → tacky feel). the propylene vs ethylene glycol polymer backbone choice determines whether the ether film is tacky (peg-based) or dry-touch (ppg-based) — a polymer side-group engineering principle controlling sensory properties.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ppg-15 stearyl ether technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin surface and inside pores, dissolves the 'glue' holding dead skin cells together, reduces sebum production, and combats acne-causing bacteria.

Why It's Used: Its oil solubility makes it uniquely effective at penetrating pores and dissolving sebum plugs – a function that water-soluble ahas cannot perform. it is the preferred exfoliant for oily, acne-prone, and congested skin.

How It Works: Salicylic acid disrupts desmosomal bonds between corneocytes, promoting exfoliation. its oil solubility allows it to penetrate the sebaceous follicle, dissolving sebum and dead cells. it also has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis.

Typically Found In: Cleansers,toners,serums,spot treatments,masks,chemical peels,anti-dandruff shampoos,acne treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – beta hydroxy acid (bha)

Secondary Functions: Anti-acne,anti-dandruff,keratolytic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–2% (otc acne treatment in us); up to 30% in professional chemical peels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or willow bark derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Naturally occurring in willow bark (salix alba) and wintergreen oil. commercially produced synthetically via kolbe-schmitt reaction for cosmetic use.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation, especially at higher concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually anti-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Can cause irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity. avoid contact with eyes. not recommended during pregnancy at high concentrations. can be drying – follow with moisturizer.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start with lower concentrations and frequency; may not be suitable for reactive or rosacea-prone skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations (0.5–2%). regulated as a drug in some countries (us: fda category i acne treatment). avoid in pregnancy at high concentrations.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,zinc,tea tree oil,benzoyl peroxide (at different times),hyaluronic acid (to counteract dryness)

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of retinol (cumulative irritation),multiple exfoliating acids simultaneously,benzoyl peroxide in same step (can increase irritation)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Salicylic acid is a member of the salicylate family and shares structural similarity with aspirin. its anti-inflammatory mechanism mirrors aspirin's cox inhibition pathway, making it uniquely effective for inflammatory acne.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,us fda acne monograph,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides powerful cleansing and rich foam but with significant skin barrier disruption at typical concentrations.

Why It's Used: Despite its widespread use, sls is a known irritant and barrier disruptor – modern formulations are increasingly replacing sls with milder alternatives or reducing concentration and buffering with mild co-surfactants.

How It Works: Anionic sulfate headgroup binds to positively charged lysine/arginine residues in skin proteins (keratin, structural proteins) causing denaturation. also solubilizes stratum corneum lipids disrupting the barrier. 12-carbon chain provides optimal critical micelle concentration for cleansing.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,cleansers,toothpaste,foaming products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – primary anionic surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut or palm lauryl alcohol

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 4/5 – high; benchmark standard irritant in skin irritation tests

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – known barrier disruptor; avoid on compromised or eczema-prone skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-established safety profile but known irritant at typical use concentrations. standard positive control in skin irritation testing. ewg score: 3.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sls is the reference positive control in standardized skin irritation testing (patch test and episkin model) precisely because its irritation mechanism is well-characterized and reproducible. its use as a research tool has paradoxically generated the most comprehensive understanding of surfactant-induced skin barrier disruption of any cleansing ingredient.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ananthapadmanabhan surfactant review,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides rich c18 fatty alcohol emolliency and thickening for stable, rich-textured emulsions.

Why It's Used: Higher-melting fatty alcohol for rich creams and buttery textures requiring a heavier emollient contribution.

How It Works: C18 chain length with higher melting point (60°c) than cetyl alcohol provides firmer lamellar structure for more viscous, richer emulsions. greater waxy character provides more occlusive emollient film than c16. stronger emulsion stabilization from more ordered lamellar network.

Typically Found In: Rich creams,body butters,intensive conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – fatty alcohol emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable or coconut/palm fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Stearyl alcohol's higher melting point (60°c) relative to cetyl alcohol (49°c) arises from the additional two-carbon chain length enabling tighter packing of fatty alcohol molecules in the crystalline state. this tighter packing provides more viscous lamellar phases that create richer, creamier emulsion textures – directly explaining why products formulated with stearyl vs cetyl alcohol have notably different sensory profiles.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides stable vitamin e delivery with antioxidant activity after esterase hydrolysis in skin.

Why It's Used: The formulation-stable vitamin e — tocopheryl acetate's ester protection prevents oxidative degradation during shelf life while releasing active tocopherol in skin for equivalent biological activity.

How It Works: Acetate ester blocks the phenolic oh group responsible for oxidation and radical scavenging. skin esterases cleave acetate bond releasing free tocopherol. released tocopherol provides lipid peroxyl radical scavenging in cell membranes. also provides direct emollient and skin conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturisers,sunscreens,anti-aging products — extremely widespread

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – stable vitamin e ester

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – natural from vegetable oils (soy, sunflower); synthetic dl-form

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: The d-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (natural isomer) is biologically superior to dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (racemic synthetic) for skin antioxidant activity. ingredient label d- vs dl- prefix identifies natural vs synthetic origin.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Tocopheryl acetate's conversion to active tocopherol in skin is quantitatively efficient: skin esterase activity is sufficient to cleave 60-80% of applied tocopheryl acetate within 24 hours of application. however, the conversion rate varies with skin condition (eczematous or barrier-compromised skin has reduced esterase activity), meaning tocopheryl acetate efficacy may be reduced precisely in the skin conditions that most need antioxidant support.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12