RéACTIVE+

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Ascorbic acid neutralizes free radicals, stimulates collagen production, inhibits melanin synthesis for a brighter complexion, and supports skin repair.

Why It's Used: It is used because it offers comprehensive antioxidant and brightening benefits supported by extensive clinical evidence. it is the most bioavailable form of vitamin c for topical application.

How It Works: As an antioxidant, it donates electrons to neutralize reactive oxygen species. it is an essential cofactor for the hydroxylation of proline and lysine in collagen synthesis. it inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, reducing hyperpigmentation.

Typically Found In: Vitamin c serums,brightening moisturizers,antioxidant formulations,spf products,eye creams

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – vitamin c

Secondary Functions: Collagen booster,tyrosinase inhibitor,ph adjuster

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–20% (effective range: 10–20%; ph must be below 3.5 for activity)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced or corn/plant-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced by reichstein synthesis or guangxi fermentation process from glucose. some plant-derived versions exist.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate; low ph formulations can cause initial tingling or stinging, especially at concentrations above 15%

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Acidic ph can irritate sensitive or compromised skin barriers. highly unstable – oxidizes rapidly when exposed to air, light, and heat (turns orange/brown). use in the morning under spf.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start at lower concentrations (5–10%). stabilized derivative forms (vitamin c derivatives) may be better tolerated.

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Very safe; well-studied. key concern is formulation stability, not safety. ewg hazard score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin e (tocopherol) – synergistic antioxidant effect,ferulic acid – stabilizing and boosting,spf,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide (use at different times if concentrations are high)

Avoid Combining With: Retinol (use at separate times – ph incompatibility),benzoyl peroxide (oxidizes vitamin c),ahas/bhas (cumulative irritation risk)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

L-ascorbic acid is the only form of vitamin c that is proven bioactive in skin at the molecular level. its instability (rapid oxidation) has driven development of numerous stable derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,pinnell et al. studies,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Smooths and softens skin by filling intercorneocyte spaces, reducing friction, and providing a pleasant aesthetic skin feel in formulations.

Why It's Used: Synthetic esters provide tailored aesthetic properties — spreadability, skin feel, volatility, refractive index — that natural oils alone cannot consistently deliver.

How It Works: The ester molecule fills microscopic surface irregularities between corneocytes, reducing coefficient of friction, reflecting light uniformly, and providing a lubrication layer that protects the skin surface.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,sunscreens,color cosmetics,body lotions,lip products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Synthetic emollients

Secondary Functions: Emollient

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetically produced ester emollient; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 1

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Silicones,uv filters,other emollients

Avoid Combining With: Strongly alkaline conditions (risk of saponification of ester-type emollients)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The spreading coefficient of an emollient is governed by its surface tension, viscosity, and polarity. esters with branched alkyl chains (e.g., isopropyl, isostearyl) spread rapidly and leave a non-tacky film; linear long-chain esters provide more substantive moisturization. hlb value determines the preferred formulation system (w/o vs o/w emulsions).

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ethylhexyl hydroxystearate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most widely used uvb chemical filtration with light, elegant aesthetics.

Why It's Used: The global uvb standard — octyl methoxycinnamate's combination of potent uvb absorption, light texture, and global approval makes it the most-used chemical uvb filter worldwide.

How It Works: Trans-cinnamate chromophore absorbs uvb at λmax 308nm (εmax ~24,000 l/mol·cm). undergoes trans-cis photoisomerisation reducing uv protection over time — requires photostabilisation with avobenzone or octocrylene. oil-soluble for elegant formulation.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,foundation with spf,tinted moisturisers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – chemical uvb filter

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Up to 10% (eu), 7.5% (us fda)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 10%. aquatic toxicity/coral reef concerns; hawaii and some us states restrict omc. requires photostabilisation for durable spf. ewg score: 5.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Omc's trans-cis photoisomerisation (absorbing uv → converting trans to less-absorbing cis form) was identified as the mechanism for sunscreen product spf decay after uv exposure. this photodegradation led to development of octocrylene and avobenzone photostabilisation strategies — a pharmacokinetic discovery that fundamentally changed sunscreen formulation science.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda uv filter otc monograph,eu cosmetics annex vi

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polysilicone-11 has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,polysilicone-11 technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Tocopherol neutralizes free radicals that damage skin cells, protects cell membranes from lipid peroxidation, moisturizes, and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

Why It's Used: It is used as both a skin-active antioxidant and a formulation stabilizer (preventing oxidation of other ingredients). it has decades of safety and efficacy evidence and works synergistically with vitamin c.

How It Works: As a chain-breaking antioxidant, tocopherol donates hydrogen atoms to interrupt lipid peroxidation chain reactions. it is regenerated by vitamin c (ascorbic acid) in the vitamins c+e antioxidant cycle, creating a more durable antioxidant defense.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,oils,sunscreens,eye creams,lip balms,antioxidant formulations,haircare products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant/vitamin e

Secondary Functions: Emollient,formulation stabilizer,barrier support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (typical: 0.1–0.5% as active; higher as formulation antioxidant)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (soybean, sunflower, wheat germ oil) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Source Notes: Natural d-alpha-tocopherol is derived from plant oils and is more bioactive. synthetic dl-alpha-tocopherol is less expensive. tocopherol acetate (tocopheryl acetate) is the more stable ester form.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; rare contact sensitivity reported

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – mildly comedogenic at higher concentrations; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: A small percentage of people report contact sensitization to tocopherol, particularly with leave-on products. comedogenicity risk is higher in oil-heavy formulations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Generally yes; perform patch test if history of vitamin e sensitivity

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Very safe; widely used. ewg hazard score: 2–3 (depending on concentration). no significant systemic concerns from topical use.

Works Well With: Ascorbic acid (vitamin c) – synergistic antioxidant pair,ferulic acid – stabilizes and boosts both c and e,ceramides,spf,retinol

Avoid Combining With: Very high concentrations of benzoyl peroxide may oxidize tocopherol; potential comedogenicity concerns in acne-prone skin when in heavy oil bases

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The combination of vitamin c, vitamin e, and ferulic acid (the 'ce ferulic' formulation) provides fourfold photoprotection against uv-induced free radical damage – a synergy documented in landmark research by pinnell et al.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,pinnell et al. (2005) journal of investigative dermatology,efsa panel on food additives

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Physically reflects and scatters uv radiation while providing antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing benefits.

Why It's Used: Multi-action mineral uv filter that simultaneously provides sun protection and skin-therapeutic benefits – the cornerstone of physical sunscreen formulations.

How It Works: Wide bandgap semiconductor physically reflects and scatters uv radiation (uva 320–400nm and uvb 280–320nm). dissolves to zn²⁺ providing antimicrobial activity, inhibiting bacterial and fungal growth. anti-inflammatory via inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase and il-8 production.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,baby products,diaper creams,wound care,anti-acne formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – mineral uv filter / antimicrobial

Secondary Functions: Broad-spectrum uv filter,anti-acne,diaper rash treatment

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25% (spf products: 10–25%; eu max 25%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – mineral/inorganic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced from zinc metal oxidation or chemical synthesis. nano zinc oxide (<100nm) improves aesthetics.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; recommended for sensitive, baby, and rosacea-prone skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at recommended concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. fda category i generally recognized as safe and effective (grase) for sunscreen. eu cosmetics regulation: max 25%. ewg sunscreen score: 1.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,salicylic acid,other actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Zinc oxide's broad-spectrum uv coverage extends into the uva1 region (360–400nm) more effectively than titanium dioxide, making it preferred for photoaging protection. nano zinc oxide (<100nm) achieves transparency on skin while maintaining uv protection efficiency.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda sunscreen grase ruling,ewg sunscreen database,eu cosmetics regulation

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12