Pure Soap

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant hydration and active ingredient solubilization with excellent skin feel.

Why It's Used: Preferred glycol humectant in premium and k-beauty formulations for superior skin feel vs propylene glycol with equivalent functionality.

How It Works: Two hydroxyl groups at 1,3-positions provide water binding and solvent activity. better tolerated than propylene glycol with minimal sensitization risk. 4-carbon backbone provides slightly greater hydrophobic character enabling dissolution of less polar actives vs pg.

Typically Found In: Toners,essences,serums,k-beauty formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycol humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

K-beauty's preference for butylene glycol over propylene glycol is driven by two factors: bg's superior skin feel (less tacky than pg's higher viscosity) and its lower sensitization potential (1,3-bg has better spatial distribution of hydroxyl groups that reduces protein interaction vs pg's 1,2-position oh groups).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides liquid c18 emolliency with excellent oxidative stability and pigment compatibility.

Why It's Used: Premium liquid fatty acid emollient for colour cosmetics and antiperspirant sticks requiring liquid c18 character at room temperature without the unsaturation and oxidation sensitivity of oleic acid.

How It Works: Branched c18 structure provides low melting point (liquid at room temperature, vs stearic acid mp 69°c). excellent chemical stability (no double bonds vs oleic acid's one). good pigment wetting and dispersibility for colour cosmetics. skin-conditioning from fatty acid chain.

Typically Found In: Colour cosmetics,antiperspirant sticks,stable lip products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – branched fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from tall oil or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Isostearic acid's liquid-state advantage over stearic acid arises from the methyl branch disrupting crystal packing: while linear stearic acid forms tight crystalline packing above 69°c (solid at room temperature), the methyl branch in isostearic acid prevents efficient crystal lattice formation, keeping it liquid at room temperature. this crystalline packing disruption principle is analogous to how cell membrane unsaturated fatty acids maintain membrane fluidity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antimicrobial c12 fatty acid activity against p. acnes and skin pathogens alongside emollient conditioning.

Why It's Used: Antimicrobial emollient with documented anti-acne activity through p. acnes membrane disruption – the primary antimicrobial fatty acid in human breast milk and coconut oil.

How It Works: C12 chain length is optimal for antimicrobial fatty acid activity: long enough for membrane insertion but short enough for effective disruption. disrupts p. acnes lipid membrane. converts to monolaurin (antimicrobial monoglyceride) via skin esterases. low melting point (44°c) provides liquid-phase emolliency above skin temperature.

Typically Found In: Anti-acne products,antimicrobial skin care,coconut-based products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c12 medium chain fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut (cocos nucifera)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 4/5 – moderate to high comedogenic potential

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lauric acid's antimicrobial activity against p. acnes (ic50 ~1μg/ml) exceeds benzoyl peroxide's ic50 (~50μg/ml) by approximately 50-fold in in vitro studies, making it one of the most potent naturally occurring anti-p. acnes compounds. its high comedogenicity rating (4/5) presents the paradox of a powerful anti-acne active in a comedogenic vehicle – limiting its practical anti-acne formulation use.

Last Verified: Cosing database,nakatsuji et al. lauric acid anti-acne study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Myristic acid has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,myristic acid technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides barrier-relevant c16 saturated fatty acid emolliency and ceramide precursor activity.

Why It's Used: Barrier-relevant saturated fatty acid for formulations targeting the free fatty acid component of the stratum corneum barrier.

How It Works: C16 saturated chain provides solid waxy emolliency. ceramide backbone precursor for c16 ceramide synthesis. free fatty acid component of stratum corneum lamellar bodies (24% of barrier lipids). nmf component providing barrier conditioning.

Typically Found In: Barrier repair products,creams,emollient systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c16 saturated fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from palm, coconut, or other vegetable oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Palmitic acid is the most abundant fatty acid in human skin and one of the three most important free fatty acids in the stratum corneum lamellar body system (alongside linoleic and oleic acids). its abundance in human skin makes palmitic acid a uniquely skin-authentic emollient – not just coating skin but integrating into the barrier lipid structure.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ricinus communis (castor) seed oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Attracts and retains moisture providing skin softening and hydration.

Why It's Used: Widely used, cost-effective humectant and formulation ingredient in moisturizers, toothpastes, and personal care.

How It Works: 6 hydroxyl groups provide strong water binding through hydrogen bonding. metabolized slowly by skin as an osmolyte.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,body lotions,toothpaste,shampoos,many personal care products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – sugar alcohol humectant

Secondary Functions: Formulation solvent,viscosity modifier

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (corn, apples) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by catalytic hydrogenation of glucose. derived from corn starch or other carbohydrate sources. gras food-approved.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sorbitol's osmolyte function in cells (accumulates in response to osmotic stress) suggests it may provide protection to skin cells under dehydrating environmental conditions, complementing its well-established surface humectant activity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty acid thickening and emolliency with soap-forming emulsification when neutralized.

Why It's Used: Classic cosmetic fatty acid used in virtually all cream and lotion formulations for thickening, emolliency, and opacification.

How It Works: Forms metal soaps (sodium stearate, potassium stearate) on reaction with alkalis for self-emulsification. crystallizes in lamellar networks for thickening. waxy solid provides opacification. low-viscosity melt above 69°c for easy processing.

Typically Found In: Creams,soaps,cleansers,emulsions – foundational ingredient

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c18 saturated fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable (palm, shea, soy stearin)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Stearic acid's dual role as both an emulsifier precursor (when saponified to sodium stearate soap) and an emollient (as unmodified fatty acid) is unique among cosmetic fatty acids. in soap-based cleansers, stearic acid is intentionally partially saponified to create a balanced system: excess stearic acid provides skin-conditioning emolliency while the sodium stearate provides surfactancy – the chemical basis for 'superfatted' soaps.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sucrose has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sucrose technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12