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DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and skin-conditioning benefits through plant-derived polyphenols and phytochemicals.

Why It's Used: Plant extracts concentrate bioactive phytochemicals evolved for environmental protection — uv, microbial, and oxidative stressors — that translate to skin benefits.

How It Works: Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids) inhibit nf-κb-mediated inflammatory signaling, scavenge reactive oxygen species through electron donation, and chelate pro-oxidant metal ions to reduce oxidative skin damage.

Typically Found In: Serums,toners,moisturizers,masks,essences

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Botanical extracts

Secondary Functions: Antioxidant,anti-inflammatory

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1899-12-31 00:00:00 -0800

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,ceramides

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizing agents

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites (flavonoids, terpenes, phenolic acids) are biosynthesized as defense compounds against uv, herbivores, and pathogens. their anti-inflammatory activity typically derives from competitive inhibition of cox-2 and 5-lox enzymes (ic50 1–50 µm), while antioxidant activity involves single electron transfer (set) and hydrogen atom transfer (hat) mechanisms with structure-dependent rate constants.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; phytochemical and ethnobotanical literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides molecular encapsulation for improved solubility, stability, and controlled release of challenging cosmetic actives.

Why It's Used: Molecular encapsulation technology — beta-cyclodextrin's toroidal cavity provides a hydrophobic microenvironment for solubilising and stabilising oil-soluble actives in aqueous formulations.

How It Works: 7 glucose units in cyclic toroidal structure provide 6.0-6.5å inner cavity. hydrophobic interior complexes lipophilic guest molecules. complexation improves water solubility (guest molecule becomes water-dispersible), stability (protection from oxidation and hydrolysis), and controlled release (guest releases gradually by diffusion). outer hydrophilic face provides water compatibility.

Typically Found In: Active delivery systems,fragrance encapsulation,stability-challenged actives

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – inclusion complex host

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from starch (corn, potato)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Beta-cyclodextrin's pharmaceutical drug delivery applications (dozens of fda-approved cd-drug complexes) provide unparalleled safety and efficacy documentation for a cosmetic excipient. the same cd technology that delivers cholesterol-lowering drugs and antifungals in pharmaceutical formulations enables cosmetic actives to be delivered more effectively — a pharmaceutical innovation directly adapted to cosmetic performance enhancement.

Last Verified: Cosing database,loftsson & brewster cyclodextrin review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides biocompatible penetration enhancement for improved active ingredient delivery.

Why It's Used: Biocompatible penetration enhancer from renewable sorbitol — dmi provides penetration enhancement without the toxicity of oleic acid or conventional chemical penetration enhancers.

How It Works: Cyclic ether from sorbitol is biocompatible and biodegradable. disrupts stratum corneum lipid packing via ether oxygen hydrogen bonding. solubilises challenging actives (retinoids, salicylic acid, ahas). enhances penetration 2–5× vs equivalent concentrations without dmi.

Typically Found In: Active delivery formulas,penetration-enhanced products,retinoid vehicles

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – penetration-enhancing solvent

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from sorbitol (corn or wheat derived)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dmi's penetration enhancement mechanism differs from oleic acid's lipid disruption: dmi hydrogen bonds to stratum corneum proteins and lipids, temporarily creating more permeable protein-lipid domains without the membrane-fluidisation that causes oleic acid's irritation. this protein-hydrogen-bonding mechanism provides penetration enhancement from a different, gentler pathway.

Last Verified: Cosing database,croda arlasolve dmi technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycereth-26 has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glycereth-26 technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides natural phospholipid emulsification with barrier-compatible delivery and liposome-forming properties.

Why It's Used: The most biologically authentic emulsifier – identical to cell membrane composition providing barrier-compatible delivery and liposome formation unavailable from synthetic emulsifiers.

How It Works: Phosphatidylcholine (pc), phosphatidylethanolamine (pe), phosphatidylinositol (pi) mixture provides hlb 7-12 for o/w emulsification. forms liposomal bilayers for active encapsulation. pc/pe/pi composition mirrors cell membrane for barrier-compatible delivery.

Typically Found In: Natural cosmetics,liposomal products,barrier repair,penetration-enhanced formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – natural phospholipid emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – soy lecithin (vegan); egg lecithin (not vegan)

Halal Status: Conditional – soy (halal); egg (verify)

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lecithin's phospholipid composition mirrors the composition of the stratum corneum's own lamellar bodies that deliver barrier lipids to the skin surface. this structural mimicry allows lecithin-based delivery systems to integrate seamlessly with the barrier lipid structure, exploiting the same transport pathway the skin uses for its own lipid secretion.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Saccharomyces ferment filtrate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,saccharomyces ferment filtrate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin surface and inside pores, dissolves the 'glue' holding dead skin cells together, reduces sebum production, and combats acne-causing bacteria.

Why It's Used: Its oil solubility makes it uniquely effective at penetrating pores and dissolving sebum plugs – a function that water-soluble ahas cannot perform. it is the preferred exfoliant for oily, acne-prone, and congested skin.

How It Works: Salicylic acid disrupts desmosomal bonds between corneocytes, promoting exfoliation. its oil solubility allows it to penetrate the sebaceous follicle, dissolving sebum and dead cells. it also has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis.

Typically Found In: Cleansers,toners,serums,spot treatments,masks,chemical peels,anti-dandruff shampoos,acne treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – beta hydroxy acid (bha)

Secondary Functions: Anti-acne,anti-dandruff,keratolytic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–2% (otc acne treatment in us); up to 30% in professional chemical peels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or willow bark derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Naturally occurring in willow bark (salix alba) and wintergreen oil. commercially produced synthetically via kolbe-schmitt reaction for cosmetic use.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 3/5 – moderate; can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation, especially at higher concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; actually anti-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Can cause irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity. avoid contact with eyes. not recommended during pregnancy at high concentrations. can be drying – follow with moisturizer.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – start with lower concentrations and frequency; may not be suitable for reactive or rosacea-prone skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations (0.5–2%). regulated as a drug in some countries (us: fda category i acne treatment). avoid in pregnancy at high concentrations.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,zinc,tea tree oil,benzoyl peroxide (at different times),hyaluronic acid (to counteract dryness)

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations of retinol (cumulative irritation),multiple exfoliating acids simultaneously,benzoyl peroxide in same step (can increase irritation)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Salicylic acid is a member of the salicylate family and shares structural similarity with aspirin. its anti-inflammatory mechanism mirrors aspirin's cox inhibition pathway, making it uniquely effective for inflammatory acne.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,us fda acne monograph,journal of the american academy of dermatology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides brightening by inhibiting uv-induced plasminogen activation that triggers melanocyte stimulation.

Why It's Used: Novel brightening mechanism — tranexamic acid targets uv-induced melanocyte stimulation upstream of tyrosinase activity, providing complementary brightening to tyrosinase inhibitors with exceptional tolerability.

How It Works: Lysine analogue binds lysine-binding sites on plasminogen preventing its conversion to plasmin. uv-activated plasmin normally increases keratinocyte arachidonic acid release stimulating melanocyte activity via prostaglandin e2 and alpha-msh. txa blocks this uv-melanocyte signalling cascade upstream of pigment synthesis.

Typically Found In: Brightening serums,anti-melasma products,uv-induced pigmentation

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – lysine analogue brightening

Secondary Functions: Melanin inhibition,hyperpigmentation reduction

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or plant-derived.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. use with spf for maximum efficacy. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,vitamin c,alpha-arbutin,tranexamic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Tranexamic acid's brightening mechanism was discovered serendipitously — it was originally a haemostasis drug for reducing surgical bleeding. dermatologists noted that patients receiving txa for bleeding showed improved melasma, leading to investigation that revealed the plasminogen–prostaglandin–melanocyte signalling cascade as a completely previously unknown brightening target.

Last Verified: Cosing database,huang et al. tranexamic acid brightening review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides pseudoplastic thickening and emulsion/suspension stabilization across broad ph and salt conditions.

Why It's Used: The most versatile cosmetic thickener – pseudoplastic behavior (shear-thinning) provides ideal pump dispensing while maintaining in-use viscosity, stable across ph 2-12 and in high-salt formulations.

How It Works: Helix-coil conformational transitions provide pseudoplastic (shear-thinning) rheology. electrostatic repulsion between negatively charged chains provides thickening without cross-linking. stable across ph 2-12 and at nacl concentrations up to saturation.

Typically Found In: Virtually all aqueous cosmetic products requiring viscosity control

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – microbial polysaccharide thickener

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – microbial fermentation (xanthomonas campestris)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Xanthan gum's pseudoplastic behavior arises from helix alignment under shear (reducing viscosity) that recovers to random coil entanglement at rest (restoring viscosity). the 100-1000× viscosity reduction during pumping vs at rest makes xanthan the ideal pump-dispensing thickener – providing both easy dispensing and in-use viscosity that neither purely viscous nor elastic thickeners can achieve simultaneously.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,fda gras

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12