Pilgrim Squalane Strawberry Lip Balm , 8 gm , with Shea & Cocoa Butter , suitable for Dark Lips, softens lips, for Men & Women

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Softens and conditions skin by integrating into sc lipid bilayers, delivers essential fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic) for barrier lipid synthesis, and provides rich, non-stripping moisturisation.

Why It's Used: Natural carrier oils provide the closest compositional match to endogenous sc lipids, delivering emolliency through genuine barrier integration rather than simple surface occlusion.

How It Works: Fatty acid triglycerides partition into sc lipid bilayers — oleic acid (c18:1) provides fluid, emollient integration; linoleic acid (c18:2) acts as essential ceramide precursor; saturated fatty acids provide more occlusive barrier reinforcement.

Typically Found In: Moisturisers,facial oils,natural skin care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Essential fatty acids — linoleic (c18:2, n-6) and α-linolenic (c18:3, n-3) acids — cannot be synthesised by the body; topical delivery through carrier oils provides direct substrate for ceramide and eicosanoid biosynthesis in the epidermis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,castor oil carrier oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Smooths and softens skin by filling intercorneocyte spaces, reducing friction, and providing a pleasant aesthetic skin feel in formulations.

Why It's Used: Synthetic esters provide tailored aesthetic properties — spreadability, skin feel, volatility, refractive index — that natural oils alone cannot consistently deliver.

How It Works: The ester molecule fills microscopic surface irregularities between corneocytes, reducing coefficient of friction, reflecting light uniformly, and providing a lubrication layer that protects the skin surface.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,sunscreens,color cosmetics,body lotions,lip products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Synthetic emollients

Secondary Functions: Emollient

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetically produced ester emollient; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 1

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Silicones,uv filters,other emollients

Avoid Combining With: Strongly alkaline conditions (risk of saponification of ester-type emollients)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The spreading coefficient of an emollient is governed by its surface tension, viscosity, and polarity. esters with branched alkyl chains (e.g., isopropyl, isostearyl) spread rapidly and leave a non-tacky film; linear long-chain esters provide more substantive moisturization. hlb value determines the preferred formulation system (w/o vs o/w emulsions).

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides hard-setting occlusive emolliency for body butters and lip balms with skin conditioning stearic acid.

Why It's Used: Classic body care and lip balm solid butter providing strong occlusive moisture retention with the iconic cocoa scent and stable solid-at-room-temperature consistency.

How It Works: High stearic (32-36%) and palmitic (25-30%) acid content provides hard, brittle texture with high melting point (34-38°c). solid at room temperature, melts at body contact for on-skin application. occlusive barrier film reduces tewl. natural polyphenols provide antioxidant activity.

Typically Found In: Body butters,lip balms,hard lotions,soap,cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Occlusive barrier,hard butter texture,natural aroma

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from theobroma cacao seeds

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Expeller or cold-pressed from roasted cacao beans. natural cocoa butter retains aroma; deodorized available for unscented formulas. very shelf stable (shelf life 3-5 years).

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 4/5 – comedogenic; avoid on acne-prone face

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cocoa butter is one of the few naturally occurring fats with a sharp melting point transition (34-38°c) just below body temperature, providing solid-at-room-temperature stability while melting completely and uniformly on skin contact. this unique thermal transition gives body butters and lip balms their characteristic texture and application.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,coconut oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides dry, non-greasy emolliency with spreading and penetration enhancement from an ester vehicle.

Why It's Used: Standard ester emollient for dry-touch formulations requiring spreading enhancement and non-greasy after-feel.

How It Works: Isopropyl ester of myristic acid provides low viscosity (4-5 cp) and low surface tension for excellent spreading. penetration enhancement via temporary stratum corneum lipid disruption. dry skin feel from rapid absorption without occlusive film.

Typically Found In: Dry-touch lotions,penetration-enhanced products,light skin care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – ester emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid (vegetable)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 3/5 – moderate comedogenic potential

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ipm's dry-touch emolliency arises from rapid penetration into the stratum corneum leaving no surface film – unlike occlusive oils that remain on the surface, ipm is quickly absorbed, providing conditioning from within the barrier without leaving greasy residue. this 'self-disappearing' emolliency made ipm revolutionary when introduced in cosmetics in the 1950s.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides flexible, adhesive structure for cosmetic sticks and pencils with superior oil-binding vs paraffin.

Why It's Used: Premium stick cosmetic wax – superior flexibility and oil binding vs paraffin for smooth-applying, non-brittle lip and eye products.

How It Works: Highly branched c30-c75 isoalkanes provide irregular microcrystalline structure (smaller crystals than paraffin). irregular packing provides more flexible, less brittle wax. better oil retention in interstices between microcrystals. higher melting point (60-90°c) than paraffin.

Typically Found In: Lipsticks,eye pencils,solid stick products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – microcrystalline petroleum wax

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: No – petroleum-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Microcrystalline wax's flexibility advantage over paraffin arises from its branched molecular structure preventing the tight, regular crystalline packing that makes paraffin brittle. the irregular microcrystal structure interlocks with liquid oil molecules, providing superior oil binding that prevents sweating (oil migration to surface) in finished stick products during storage.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sesame oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides deep nourishing emolliency with anti-inflammatory cinnamic acid esters and a uniquely rich unsaponifiable fraction.

Why It's Used: The most nutritious plant butter – unique cinnamic acid esters, lupeol, and rich unsaponifiable fraction provide anti-inflammatory and wound healing benefits beyond standard fatty acid emolliency.

How It Works: Cinnamic acid esters absorb uv radiation providing mild natural uv filtering (spf 3-4). lupeol inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity. high stearic acid provides occlusive barrier function. rich unsaponifiable fraction (4-9%) provides phytosterols, tocopherols, and triterpenes for bioactive skin benefits.

Typically Found In: Body butters,rich moisturizers,baby products,hair conditioners,lip balms

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Cinnamic acid uv support,lupeol anti-inflammatory,rich emolliency

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from butyrospermum parkii nuts

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Unrefined (raw) shea retains more unsaponifiable fraction and stronger natural scent/color. refined shea is odorless, white, and cleaner for formulation. certified fair trade supports west african women's cooperatives.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic (refined); 2/5 – low (raw/unrefined)

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Shea butter's unsaponifiable fraction (4-9%, vs coconut oil's 0.5% and olive oil's 1-2%) is exceptionally rich in triterpenes, phytosterols, and tocopherols. this fraction is responsible for shea's anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties that simple fatty acid analysis fails to reveal.

Last Verified: Cosing database,lin et al. shea butter cinnamic acid study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides endogenous-skin-identical emolliency with exceptional stability and skin compatibility.

Why It's Used: The most skin-compatible emollient – chemically identical to human sebum squalene component with outstanding tolerability across all skin types.

How It Works: Fully saturated hydrocarbon with zero oxidation sites provides exceptional stability unlike squalene's 6 double bonds. integrates into stratum corneum lipid bilayers with near-perfect biocompatibility. provides antioxidant protection to formulation via radical quenching.

Typically Found In: Facial oils,serums,non-comedogenic moisturizers,luxury body care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Maximum biocompatibility,antioxidant stabilizer,non-comedogenic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived (sugarcane, olive) preferred; shark liver-derived being phased out

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived

Source Notes: Sustainable plant-derived squalane from sugarcane fermentation (amyris) or olive oil fractionation is preferred over shark liver-derived. chemically identical regardless of source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Squalene constitutes approximately 12-15% of human sebum – the highest proportion of any skin lipid. topical squalane (stable, hydrogenated form) replenishes this abundant endogenous skin lipid. the complete absence of oxidizable double bonds (unlike squalene's 6 double bonds) eliminates the pro-oxidant concerns of natural squalene oxidation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,huang et al. squalane review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12