Pilgrim Patua & Keratin Hair Smoothing Conditioner for Dry & Frizzy Hair

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Softens and conditions skin by integrating into sc lipid bilayers, delivers essential fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic) for barrier lipid synthesis, and provides rich, non-stripping moisturisation.

Why It's Used: Natural carrier oils provide the closest compositional match to endogenous sc lipids, delivering emolliency through genuine barrier integration rather than simple surface occlusion.

How It Works: Fatty acid triglycerides partition into sc lipid bilayers — oleic acid (c18:1) provides fluid, emollient integration; linoleic acid (c18:2) acts as essential ceramide precursor; saturated fatty acids provide more occlusive barrier reinforcement.

Typically Found In: Moisturisers,facial oils,natural skin care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Essential fatty acids — linoleic (c18:2, n-6) and α-linolenic (c18:3, n-3) acids — cannot be synthesised by the body; topical delivery through carrier oils provides direct substrate for ceramide and eicosanoid biosynthesis in the epidermis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,argania spinosa kernel oil carrier oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the complete fragrance profile contributing to product sensory experience and consumer appeal.

Why It's Used: Fragrance is a major consumer purchase driver — up to 70% of consumers make purchasing decisions partially based on product scent.

How It Works: Fragrance blends interact with olfactory receptors providing the sensory profile — complex mixtures activate multiple receptor types for rich, multidimensional scent experiences.

Typically Found In: All fragrance products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Standard use levels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ifra guidelines set usage limits for fragrance ingredients based on skin sensitisation and phototoxicity assessment for each application category.

Last Verified: Eu regulation 1223/2009 annex iii,ifra standards,fragrance allergen declaration requirements

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydrolyzed wheat protein has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hydrolyzed wheat protein technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: No

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Contains animal-derived components (keratin...); not suitable for vegan formulations.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Conditional

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Deposits a conditioning film on hair and skin through electrostatic attraction to negative cuticle/corneocyte surfaces, reduces hair-on-hair friction for improved combability and detangling, eliminates static charge buildup, and provides anti-frizz humidity resistance.

Why It's Used: Cationic polymers are the primary hair conditioning technology — the permanent positive quaternary ammonium groups provide substantive deposition that resists rinsing, delivering persistent conditioning between washes unlike small-molecule cationic conditioners.

How It Works: At shampoo/conditioner ph 4.5–5.5, hair cuticle carries net negative charge (isoelectric point ph ~3.5). polyquaternium cations undergo electrostatic attraction depositing on the cuticle surface. during rinsing, the deposited polymer film persists from reduced surface-solution equilibrium at low bulk concentration — substantive deposition from favourable interfacial versus bulk partitioning.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,conditioners,leave-in products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Different polyquaternium numbers indicate different backbone chemistries: pq-7 (acrylamide/quaternary acrylate copolymer) for leave-on flexibility; pq-10 (hydroxyethylcellulose/quaternary ammonium) for substantive deposition; pq-11 (vp/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) for styling fixation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,polyquaternium-7 cationic conditioning deposition review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Steareth-21 has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,steareth-21 technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides gentle, well-tolerated emolliency for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin.

Why It's Used: The most universally tolerated plant oil – gentle, light, and well-tolerated across all age groups and skin types.

How It Works: Balanced oleic (62-73%) and linoleic (20-30%) fatty acid composition provides dual emolliency and barrier repair. light texture (lower viscosity vs avocado/olive) provides better aesthetic for face and body. vitamin e provides antioxidant protection.

Typically Found In: Baby products,sensitive skin formulas,body oils,massage oils,facial oils

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Universal tolerability,gentle emolliency

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from prunus amygdalus dulcis seeds

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Cold-pressed from sweet almond kernels. non-roasted (cosmetic grade) has lighter color and odor than food-grade roasted. shelf life 12-18 months.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sweet almond oil's balanced oleic/linoleic ratio (approximately 3:1) provides both the emollient (oleic-driven skin softening) and barrier repair (linoleic-driven ceramide synthesis support) properties from a single oil, making it a particularly complete standalone facial and body moisturizing oil.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12