Perenne Broad Spectrum SPF 50 - For All Skin Types

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides hard-setting occlusive emolliency for body butters and lip balms with skin conditioning stearic acid.

Why It's Used: Classic body care and lip balm solid butter providing strong occlusive moisture retention with the iconic cocoa scent and stable solid-at-room-temperature consistency.

How It Works: High stearic (32-36%) and palmitic (25-30%) acid content provides hard, brittle texture with high melting point (34-38°c). solid at room temperature, melts at body contact for on-skin application. occlusive barrier film reduces tewl. natural polyphenols provide antioxidant activity.

Typically Found In: Body butters,lip balms,hard lotions,soap,cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Occlusive barrier,hard butter texture,natural aroma

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from theobroma cacao seeds

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Expeller or cold-pressed from roasted cacao beans. natural cocoa butter retains aroma; deodorized available for unscented formulas. very shelf stable (shelf life 3-5 years).

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 4/5 – comedogenic; avoid on acne-prone face

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cocoa butter is one of the few naturally occurring fats with a sharp melting point transition (34-38°c) just below body temperature, providing solid-at-room-temperature stability while melting completely and uniformly on skin contact. this unique thermal transition gives body butters and lip balms their characteristic texture and application.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Soothes and refreshes irritated skin with anti-inflammatory and astringent properties.

Why It's Used: Classic gentle soothing botanical for sensitive skin formulations with astringent, hydrating, and depuffing properties.

How It Works: Caffeic acid inhibits prostaglandin synthesis. cucurbitacins provide anti-inflammatory activity. high water content provides hydration. ascorbic acid provides antioxidant support. silica provides mild astringency.

Typically Found In: Toners,eye gels,sensitive skin products,after-sun formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Gentle soothing,astringent,depuffing

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cucumber's traditional use for puffy eyes has a physiological basis – the combination of mild astringency (silica-mediated protein contraction), anti-inflammatory (caffeic acid), and coolness (high water content evaporation) provides a triple-action depuffing effect that explains its enduring use.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides sebum-identical emolliency with outstanding oxidative stability and non-comedogenic profile.

Why It's Used: The most sebum-compatible plant oil – its wax ester composition mimics human sebum for superior skin compatibility across all skin types including oily and acne-prone.

How It Works: Liquid wax ester composition (primarily c20:1 and c22:1 wax esters) provides exceptional molecular mimicry of human sebum wax esters. regulates sebum production via negative feedback to sebaceous glands. remarkable oxidative stability from fully unsaturated wax ester structure vs polyunsaturated triglycerides.

Typically Found In: Facial oils,hair oils,serums,body care,lip care,virtually all product categories

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Sebum balancing,oxidative stability,non-comedogenic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seeds

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Cold-pressed from jojoba seeds. among the most oxidation-stable plant oils (shelf life 5+ years). desert-grown, drought-resistant crop.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; sebum-identical composition

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Jojoba oil's wax ester composition is uniquely different from all other plant oils (which are triglycerides). human sebum contains approximately 25% wax esters – the proportion matched by jojoba. this structural identity explains jojoba's superior skin and hair compatibility versus conventional triglyceride oils.

Last Verified: Cosing database,gad et al. jojoba review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Brightens skin and reduces hyperpigmentation through glabridin tyrosinase inhibition while calming inflammation.

Why It's Used: Combined brightening + soothing in one botanical – ideal for hyperpigmentation with skin reactivity where brightening actives (ahas, retinoids) increase sensitivity.

How It Works: Glabridin inhibits uvb-induced melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity. isoliquiritigenin inhibits melanocyte-stimulating hormone (msh). glycyrrhizinic acid inhibits prostaglandin synthesis for anti-inflammatory activity. licochalcone a inhibits nf-kb.

Typically Found In: Brightening serums,anti-inflammatory formulas,post-sun products,sensitive skin brightening

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – soothing / anti-inflammatory

Secondary Functions: Glabridin tyrosinase inhibition,anti-inflammatory,post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – glycyrrhiza glabra root-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – particularly recommended for sensitive skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glabridin's tyrosinase inhibition mechanism differs from both kojic acid (copper chelation) and arbutin (substrate competition) – it inhibits the enzyme's catalytic conformation without substrate competition, providing a third distinct brightening mechanism suitable for formulation with the other inhibitor types for synergistic brightening.

Last Verified: Cosing database,yokota et al. glabridin study,plenkov et al. licorice review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides documented cosmetic activity from sophora flavescens root extract.

Why It's Used: Sophora flavescens root extract delivers formulation value through its specific biological activity and established safety and efficacy.

How It Works: Source: sophora flavescens root extract. mechanism: documented in cosmetic literature. safety: cosing-reviewed. standard cosmetic use concentrations.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations,active products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sophora flavescens root extract provides cosmetic activity through its characteristic mechanism. at standard concentrations it delivers documented biological activity with established safety from cosmetic science literature and regulatory review.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sophora flavescens root extract technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12