Pears Ultra Mild Facewash - Fresh Renewal

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides versatile acrylic film formation and thickening across broad ph range.

Why It's Used: Versatile workhorse polymer for film formation and thickening across diverse cosmetic product types from acidic aha serums to alkaline cleansers.

How It Works: Copolymer of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters. thickens via polymer chain entanglement and electrostatic repulsion. film formation from chain entanglement on water evaporation. broad ph stability from balanced acid/neutral monomer composition.

Typically Found In: Serums,lotions,sunscreens — versatile across formulation types

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – acrylic film former

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Acrylates copolymers' broad ph thickening stability (vs carbomer's ph-sensitive thickening, requiring neutralisation for viscosity) enables thickening of acidic aha serums (ph 3-4) without neutralisation — maintaining the low ph required for aha efficacy while providing viscosity control. this acid-stable thickening is impossible with conventional carbomers.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides combined uva and uvb filtration in a single chemical uv filter molecule.

Why It's Used: Combined uva+uvb filter historically used for broad-spectrum coverage in a single ingredient, now increasingly restricted.

How It Works: Benzophenone chromophore absorbs uvb (305nm) and uva-ii (326nm) via two separate n→π* transitions. water-soluble allows aqueous phase formulation. single filter providing partial broad-spectrum coverage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens (being phased out in many markets)

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – chemical uva/uvb filter

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Up to 6% (eu), 6% (us fda)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 6%. coral reef/aquatic toxicity — banned hawaii, palau, some us states. potential endocrine activity at high systemic exposure. ewg score: 7. use declining due to regulatory pressure.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Benzophenone-3's declining use reflects evolving understanding of environmental and endocrine impacts: discovered in coral bleaching studies, its restriction in hawaii (2018) sparked a global trend in marine-safe sunscreen formulations that is reshaping the industry away from bp-3 toward mineral filters and marine-safer organic alternatives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda uv filter otc monograph,hawaii bp-3 restriction law

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides floral-balsamic scent with uv-absorbing fixative properties.

Why It's Used: Natural jasmine-associated fragrance ester with mild uv protection contribution for fragranced sun-exposed products.

How It Works: Salicylate ester absorbs uv-b mildly. provides fixative function by slowing evaporation of lighter fragrance top notes. naturally in jasmine absolute (1-3%). good skin absorption.

Typically Found In: Floral fragrances,sun-exposed products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – floral fixative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from jasmine absolute, or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Benzyl salicylate's salicylate moiety provides uv absorption in the uvb range (absorbs at 295-315nm) despite not being a registered uv filter. its occurrence in jasmine absolute means natural jasmine-fragranced products inherently contain a mild uv absorber – an incidental benefit of the natural fragrance chemistry that wasn't intentionally designed as photoprotection.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides colour in cosmetic formulations within permitted application areas (eye, lip, or general) as specified per ci 42090 in fda 21 cfr 73/74 and eu annex iv.

Why It's Used: Regulatory compliance requires verifying permitted use category (fd&c, d&c, ext. d&c) and approved application area for each target market before formulating.

How It Works: Colour from electronic transitions in the chromophore structure — metal d-orbital transitions (inorganic pigments) or π→π* transitions (organic chromophores) absorb specific visible wavelengths providing the perceived complementary colour.

Typically Found In: Colour cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – mineral / metal active

Secondary Functions: Antimicrobial,sebum regulation,antioxidant enzyme cofactor

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Per fda/eu permitted list

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Mineral/inorganic compound. cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating at recommended concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at recommended concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,salicylic acid,other actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Us fda requires batch certification per lot; eu annex iv restricts by product type. both markets require verifying the specific permitted use category for each colorant.

Last Verified: Fda 21 cfr 73/74,eu annex iv cosmetic colorant

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides colour in cosmetic formulations within the permitted application areas and concentrations specified by fda 21 cfr 73/74 and eu cosmetics regulation annex iv.

Why It's Used: Regulatory compliance requires verifying both the permitted use category (fd&c, d&c, ext. d&c) and the specific application area approval for each colorant in each target market.

How It Works: Colour arises from selective wavelength absorption by the chromophore structure — electronic transitions (d-orbital for transition metal pigments; π→π* for organic chromophores) absorb specific visible wavelengths providing the perceived complementary colour.

Typically Found In: Colour cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – mineral / metal active

Secondary Functions: Antimicrobial,sebum regulation,antioxidant enzyme cofactor

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Per product type — check fda/eu permitted list

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Mineral/inorganic compound. cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating at recommended concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at recommended concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,salicylic acid,other actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

All cosmetic colorants in the us require fda batch certification confirming identity and purity per lot — uncertified batches cannot legally appear in finished us cosmetics. eu annex iv lists permitted colorants with specific maximum concentrations and use restrictions by product category.

Last Verified: Fda 21 cfr 73/74,eu cosmetics regulation annex iv,colorant regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Adjusts ph to optimal ranges, chelates destabilizing metal ions, provides mild exfoliation at higher concentrations.

Why It's Used: Universal cosmetic ph adjuster and chelating agent. aha exfoliant activity is secondary.

How It Works: As ph adjuster, donates protons. as chelating agent, three carboxylic groups bind divalent metals (ca²⁺, mg²⁺, fe²⁺) preventing oxidative degradation.

Typically Found In: Nearly all cosmetic formulations,brightening products,exfoliants

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Chelating agent,ph adjustment,preservation enhancement

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by fermentation of sugars by aspergillus niger. gras (e330). most abundant organic acid in citrus.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low at low concentrations; 2/5 at exfoliant concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Three carboxylic acid groups provide multiple proton donation sites and stronger chelation than monocarboxylic ahas. this makes citric acid the preferred cosmetic chelating agent alongside edta.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Boosts foam, enhances mildness, and conditions skin and hair when combined with primary surfactants.

Why It's Used: The standard foam booster and mildness enhancer in virtually all shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers – provides synergistic mildness improvement with anionic surfactants.

How It Works: Amphoteric (zwitterionic) character provides positive charge interaction with hair keratin for antistatic conditioning. reduces irritation of co-formulated anionic surfactants via ionic complex formation. foam stabilization via bilayer reinforcement in foam lamellae.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,body washes,facial cleansers,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – amphoteric surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut fatty acids and dimethylaminopropylamine

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Capb's mildness-enhancing synergy with sls has a molecular mechanism: capb's positive imidazoline head group forms an ion pair complex with sls's anionic sulfate group, reducing sls's free monomer concentration (the irritation-causing species) without significantly reducing micelle-forming capacity (the cleansing species).

Last Verified: Cosing database,ananthapadmanabhan surfactant review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the characteristic sweet hay-vanilla warmth central to fougère fragrance compositions.

Why It's Used: The fougère fragrance family-defining compound – coumarin is the essential warm-sweet note in lavender-oakmoss-coumarin fougère compositions that define men's cologne classics.

How It Works: Bicyclic lactone provides sweet hay-vanilla scent from its conjugated carbonyl system. good skin absorption for lasting fragrance. low volatility provides fixative properties.

Typically Found In: Fougère fragrances,men's cologne,warm oriental fragrances

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – lactone

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic; natural from dipteryx odorata

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines restrict due to hepatotoxicity at high oral doses (not from topical use).

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Coumarin's natural source (tonka beans, dipteryx odorata) led to its historical use in food flavouring until toxicological studies revealed hepatotoxicity at high oral doses. the restriction of coumarin from food flavouring (eu and fda) drove fragrance reformulation in some cosmetic categories, though topical exposure levels from cosmetics are orders of magnitude below hepatotoxic doses.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides metal ion chelation to prevent product degradation and boost preservative and antioxidant efficacy.

Why It's Used: The most essential stability ingredient in cosmetics — disodium edta's metal chelation prevents rancidity, discoloration, and preservative failure caused by trace metal contamination in virtually all aqueous cosmetic formulations.

How It Works: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid provides six potential coordination sites for metal ions (aminodiacetate groups). chelates ca²⁺, mg²⁺ (stability), fe³⁺ (fenton radical prevention), cu²⁺ (oxidase inhibition). disrupts gram-negative bacterial outer membrane by chelating membrane calcium, enhancing preservative penetration.

Typically Found In: Virtually all aqueous cosmetics — creams, lotions, shampoos, toners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – chelating agent

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.005%–0.1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Disodium edta's preservative potentiation against gram-negative bacteria is mechanistically elegant: gram-negative outer membranes contain lipopolysaccharide stabilised by calcium and magnesium bridges. edta chelates these metal ions, destabilising the lps layer and creating pores that allow hydrophobic preservatives (phenoxyethanol, parabens) to penetrate — converting gram-negative-resistant preservatives into broad-spectrum ones.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12