Masque De Glaise / Purifying Clay Masque

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides thixotropic clay gellation and deep oil absorption from swelling smectite clay.

Why It's Used: Strongest adsorbing clay for deep cleansing masks – bentonite's high cation exchange capacity and swelling capacity provide the deepest oil and toxin adsorption of common cosmetic clays.

How It Works: Montmorillonite 2:1 layered silicate swells up to 15× in water via interlayer water absorption. very high cation exchange capacity (cec: 80-150 meq/100g) provides exceptional adsorption of cations, oils, and toxins. thixotropic gel provides 'mask that hardens' sensory experience.

Typically Found In: Clay masks,deep cleansing products,detoxifying formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – swelling clay mineral

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Bentonite's extraordinary swelling (up to 15× dry volume) arises from its 2:1 layer structure: sodium bentonite's inter-layer sodium cations attract very thick water shells, forcing the silicate layers apart by electrostatic repulsion. calcium bentonite swells only 2-3× by comparison, explaining why sodium-exchanged bentonite is the industrial standard for swelling applications.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most potent antimicrobial diol activity alongside skin feel enhancement.

Why It's Used: Premium antimicrobial diol — caprylyl glycol's c8 chain provides the strongest membrane-disrupting antimicrobial activity of common diol preservative boosters with unique skin-feel enhancement.

How It Works: C8 1,2-diol: c8 chain length provides strongest bacterial and fungal membrane disruption of common diols. emollient skin feel improvement from c8 chain length interaction with skin surface. active at lower concentrations than shorter-chain diols. synergistic with ethylhexylglycerin.

Typically Found In: Natural preservation systems,skin feel enhancement

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – antimicrobial humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Caprylyl glycol's antimicrobial potency follows the chain-length dependent membrane activity of fatty acids: c8 is the optimal chain length for membrane disruption (same as caprylic acid's antimicrobial optimum), providing maximum membrane integration without the skin sensitisation associated with longer chain lengths. this chain-length pharmacophore relationship is why c8 > c6 > c5 in diol antimicrobial potency despite identical head group chemistry.

Last Verified: Cosing database,schülke sensiva sc 50 technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides oil absorption and matting from the fine platelet clay structure.

Why It's Used: Most versatile cosmetic clay – gentle enough for sensitive skin while providing effective oil absorption, matting, and mineral conditioning.

How It Works: 1:1 layered silicate clay platelets absorb oils via capillary action in inter-platelet spaces. very mild ph (6-7). white colour from al-o-si lattice. fine particle size (0.5-4μm) provides gentle exfoliation and smooth texture. negative surface charge provides light skin conditioning.

Typically Found In: Masks,foundations,dry shampoo,mattifying products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – white clay mineral

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Kaolin's oil absorption mechanism involves genuine capillary condensation of oils into the inter-platelet micropores between its layered silicate sheets. the surface area of cosmetic-grade kaolin (10-30 m²/g) provides thousands of square meters of oil-adsorbing surface per gram – explaining its exceptional mattifying efficacy despite its inert mineral composition.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides shimmer and pearlescence from flat-platelet mica crystal light reflection.

Why It's Used: Universal cosmetic shimmer ingredient – mica's flat-platelet morphology provides the directional light reflection responsible for the dimensional shimmer effect in all pearlescent cosmetics.

How It Works: Flat platelets (1-200μm) reflect and refract light specularly producing shimmer. when coated with tio2 or iron oxides, provides colour-shifting pearlescence via thin-film optical interference. natural slip from platelet layering reduces application friction.

Typically Found In: Foundation,eyeshadow,highlighter,blush – virtually all colour cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Colorant – mineral shimmer pigment

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mica-based pearlescent pigments (mica coated with tio2 or iron oxides) produce colour-shifting optical effects via thin-film light interference – the same phenomenon as oil on water or butterfly wings. as tio2 coating thickness increases, the interference wavelength shifts from silver → gold → red → violet → blue → green, creating the entire pearlescent colour palette from a single mineral substrate by controlling coating thickness.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cosmetics regulation annex iv,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Builds aqueous viscosity through polymer chain entanglement above the overlap concentration, forms conditioning films on skin and hair, and stabilises suspensions through yield stress.

Why It's Used: Natural biopolymer thickeners provide elegant formulation sensory without the tight ph requirements of synthetic carbomers — preferred in shampoos and conditioners where broad ph tolerance and natural origin are both required.

How It Works: Polysaccharide chains above overlap concentration c* entangle forming a viscoelastic network — viscosity scales as c^4.7 above c*, providing steep concentration-viscosity dependence. chemical modification (hydroxypropyl, hydroxyethyl) increases water solubility and cold-processability of otherwise difficult-to-dissolve natural polysaccharides.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,conditioners,gels

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Biopolymer thickeners are sensitive to electrolyte concentration — high salt levels screen polymer charge interactions reducing viscosity. formulation salt content must be accounted for when selecting polymer concentration for target viscosity.

Last Verified: Cosing database,microcrystalline cellulose biopolymer thickener review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propylene glycol isoceteth-3 acetate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,propylene glycol isoceteth-3 acetat technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Physically reflects and scatters uv radiation while providing antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing benefits.

Why It's Used: Multi-action mineral uv filter that simultaneously provides sun protection and skin-therapeutic benefits – the cornerstone of physical sunscreen formulations.

How It Works: Wide bandgap semiconductor physically reflects and scatters uv radiation (uva 320–400nm and uvb 280–320nm). dissolves to zn²⁺ providing antimicrobial activity, inhibiting bacterial and fungal growth. anti-inflammatory via inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase and il-8 production.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,baby products,diaper creams,wound care,anti-acne formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – mineral uv filter / antimicrobial

Secondary Functions: Broad-spectrum uv filter,anti-acne,diaper rash treatment

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25% (spf products: 10–25%; eu max 25%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – mineral/inorganic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced from zinc metal oxidation or chemical synthesis. nano zinc oxide (<100nm) improves aesthetics.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; recommended for sensitive, baby, and rosacea-prone skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at recommended concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. fda category i generally recognized as safe and effective (grase) for sunscreen. eu cosmetics regulation: max 25%. ewg sunscreen score: 1.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,salicylic acid,other actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Zinc oxide's broad-spectrum uv coverage extends into the uva1 region (360–400nm) more effectively than titanium dioxide, making it preferred for photoaging protection. nano zinc oxide (<100nm) achieves transparency on skin while maintaining uv protection efficiency.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda sunscreen grase ruling,ewg sunscreen database,eu cosmetics regulation

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12