Lakme Lumi Smooth AHA+BHA+PHA+B3 cream

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Exfoliates dead skin cells by disrupting desmosomal adhesion bonds, brightens skin tone, stimulates collagen production, and improves product active penetration through the exfoliated sc.

Why It's Used: Aha exfoliation is the most evidence-backed chemical exfoliation mechanism with 30+ years of clinical use data; different acid sizes allow formulators to select penetration depth and intensity for specific skin types.

How It Works: Aha carboxylic groups donate h⁺ disrupting ca²⁺ coordination of desmoglein desmosomal proteins at formulation ph 3–4, weakening corneocyte cohesion. smaller ahas (glycolic, mw 76) penetrate fastest; larger (mandelic, mw 152) penetrate slower for gentler exfoliation.

Typically Found In: Exfoliating toners,aha serums,anti-aging

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Brightening,collagen stimulation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. ph must be ≤4.0 for aha activity.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycolic acid is the most clinically studied aha; mandelic and lactic are preferred for sensitive or darker skin types from their larger molecular weight and slower penetration kinetics.

Last Verified: Cosing database,aha aha exfoliant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Attracts and retains moisture in the sc, improves skin barrier function at low concentrations, provides gentle keratolytic softening, and acts as a co-solvent for water-soluble actives.

Why It's Used: The reference humectant — lowest cost, best safety profile, universal formulation compatibility, and present naturally in the sc via lipase-mediated glycerolipid hydrolysis makes glycerin the industry standard against which all humectants are benchmarked.

How It Works: Three hydroxyl groups form 6 h-bonds with water molecules per glycerol unit — the highest oh-group density per carbon of any commercial humectant. glycerin also down-regulates epidermal serine proteases that overactivate in dry sc, improving desquamation and barrier integrity.

Typically Found In: All cosmetics,universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–40%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Epidermal lipases hydrolyse sc glycerophospholipids during cornification, releasing glycerol that contributes to the natural nmf — topical glycerin directly supplements this endogenous sc humectant pool.

Last Verified: Cosing database,glycerin universal humectant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Activates trpm8 cold thermoreceptors for intense cooling sensation and analgesic activity.

Why It's Used: The most potent cosmetic cooling agent – direct trpm8 agonist providing cooling sensation without actual temperature reduction for refreshing and analgesic formulations.

How It Works: Potent trpm8 (menthol receptor/cold thermosensor) agonist – activation at room temperature mimics cold sensation without actual cooling. anti-pruritic via trpm8 activation competing with itch c-fiber signaling. antimicrobial via membrane disruption.

Typically Found In: Cooling products,scalp treatments,oral care,pain relief,foot care,after-sun

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cooling sensory terpenoid

Secondary Functions: Redness reduction,anti-inflammatory,calming

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from mentha piperita or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate; potential sensitizer

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; ideal for reactive and sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Avoid near eyes. use with caution at concentrations above 1% for sensitive skin.

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 4.5% (leave-on); regulations vary by application site. avoid on infants' face.

Works Well With: Ceramides,panthenol,allantoin,hyaluronic acid,centella asiatica

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Menthol's exceptional cooling potency stems from its ec50 for trpm8 activation of approximately 10μm (vs camphor's ec50 of ~5mm – 500× lower potency). this 500× potency advantage explains why even tiny concentrations of menthol provide intense cooling, while much higher concentrations of camphor are required for equivalent sensation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,mckemy et al. menthol trpm8 discovery,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides gentle keratolytic exfoliation, skin brightening, and humectant moisture retention simultaneously — with a skin-irritation profile significantly lower than glycolic or lactic acid from slower penetration kinetics.

Why It's Used: The gold standard for sensitive skin chemical exfoliation — phas provide aha-class exfoliation efficacy in fitzpatrick iv–vi and rosacea skin types where glycolic acid is too aggressive.

How It Works: Multiple hydroxyl groups on the pha molecule slow sc penetration (fick's law: d ∝ mw^-0.7) providing gentler keratolytic action. the hydroxyl groups also bind water providing simultaneous humectancy and chelate ca²⁺ to disrupt desmosomal adhesion for exfoliation.

Typically Found In: Sensitive skin,exfoliating toners,post-procedure

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Brightening,collagen stimulation

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived or synthetic. ph must be ≤4.0 for aha activity.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phas have a water of hydration shell from multiple oh groups that further slows sc penetration versus equivalent-mw ahas — the combined larger mw and greater hydration shell providing the gentlest keratolytic delivery kinetics of all acid exfoliants.

Last Verified: Cosing database,polyhydroxy acid pha gentle exfoliant review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12