Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

1-2-hexanediol has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,1-2-hexanediol technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides gram-negative focused preservation complementary to phenoxyethanol for comprehensive spectrum coverage.

Why It's Used: Phenoxyethanol complement — chlorphenesin's gram-negative and antifungal coverage complements phenoxyethanol's gram-positive activity for full-spectrum preservation at lower individual concentrations.

How It Works: 4-chlorophenol ether glycol disrupts bacterial and fungal membranes. strong gram-negative activity (pseudomonas, e. coli). good candida antifungal activity. used with phenoxyethanol for synergistic broad-spectrum coverage. ph stable 3-9.

Typically Found In: Comprehensive preservation systems,baby products (low concentration)

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycerol ether preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 0.3% cosmetics. good safety profile. synergistic combination with phenoxyethanol (0.3% pe + 0.1% chlorphenesin often equivalent to 1% pe alone).

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Chlorphenesin + phenoxyethanol synergy operates through a classic spectrum-filling combination: phenoxyethanol provides strong gram-positive antimicrobial activity while chlorphenesin provides gram-negative and antifungal coverage. the combination's minimum inhibitory concentration sum is subadditive (provides equivalent preservation at combined concentrations below what either alone would require) — textbook pharmacological synergy enabling lower total preservative load.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu preservative annex v,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function — skin conditioning, protection, preservation, or active biological benefit — at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for its functional contribution and formulation compatibility — supported by cosmetic science literature and regulatory safety assessment.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical interaction with the formulation or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Guaiazulene delivers documented functional benefit with an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework (cosing eu, cir usa).

Last Verified: Cosing database,guaiazulene technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides natural phospholipid emulsification with barrier-compatible delivery and liposome-forming properties.

Why It's Used: The most biologically authentic emulsifier – identical to cell membrane composition providing barrier-compatible delivery and liposome formation unavailable from synthetic emulsifiers.

How It Works: Phosphatidylcholine (pc), phosphatidylethanolamine (pe), phosphatidylinositol (pi) mixture provides hlb 7-12 for o/w emulsification. forms liposomal bilayers for active encapsulation. pc/pe/pi composition mirrors cell membrane for barrier-compatible delivery.

Typically Found In: Natural cosmetics,liposomal products,barrier repair,penetration-enhanced formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – natural phospholipid emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – soy lecithin (vegan); egg lecithin (not vegan)

Halal Status: Conditional – soy (halal); egg (verify)

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lecithin's phospholipid composition mirrors the composition of the stratum corneum's own lamellar bodies that deliver barrier lipids to the skin surface. this structural mimicry allows lecithin-based delivery systems to integrate seamlessly with the barrier lipid structure, exploiting the same transport pathway the skin uses for its own lipid secretion.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides direct egf receptor activation for accelerated wound healing and anti-aging cell renewal.

Why It's Used: The most clinically validated growth factor in cosmetics — recombinant egf has the largest body of clinical evidence for anti-aging and wound healing acceleration of any cosmetic growth factor.

How It Works: Binds egf receptor (egfr) tyrosine kinase triggering phosphorylation cascade. egfr activation stimulates keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (wound healing). upregulates collagen, fibronectin, and ha synthesis. accelerates wound re-epithelialisation rate 2-3×.

Typically Found In: Wound healing products,premium anti-aging,post-procedure recovery

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – recombinant egf

Secondary Functions: Cell renewal,collagen stimulation,wound healing

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.0001%–0.01%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – recombinant from yeast or e. coli expression

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Biotechnology-produced (recombinant or conditioned media).

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: Avoid with harsh ahas that may denature protein structure

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sh-oligopeptide-1's clinical wound healing acceleration (2-3× faster re-epithelialisation rate at 5μg/ml) was originally demonstrated in nobel laureate stanley cohen's egf research (nobel prize 1986 for egf discovery). the same growth factor that cohen purified from mouse submaxillary glands and used to study nerve and skin growth became the first recombinant protein cosmetic ingredient when biosynthetic production made it commercially accessible.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cohen egf nobel lecture,rheinwald & green rhegf wound study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Supports anti-aging skin structure by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis and modulating skin matrix metalloproteinase activity.

Why It's Used: Peptide sequences mimic endogenous skin communication molecules, triggering cellular responses that decline with age — restoring youthful skin structure.

How It Works: Specific amino acid sequences bind to cell surface receptors or penetrate to fibroblasts where they activate growth factor pathways, tgf-β signaling, or mmp-inhibiting mechanisms, stimulating ecm remodeling.

Typically Found In: Anti-aging serums,ampoules,eye creams,firming moisturizers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Bioactive peptides

Secondary Functions: Anti-aging,skin-conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or recombinant peptide; no animal-derived material.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Retinol,vitamin c,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide

Avoid Combining With: Proteolytic enzymes (papain, bromelain); extreme ph

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cosmetic peptides are typically 2–10 amino acids, short enough for transdermal penetration but specific enough for receptor binding. their bioactivity depends on sequence (primary structure), lipophilization (e.g., palmitoyl modification increases skin penetration 10-fold), and resistance to skin proteases — often achieved through d-amino acid substitution or terminal modifications.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; j pept sci peptide cosmetic reviews; j cosmet dermatol clinical studies

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Stimulates skin cell proliferation and collagen synthesis through igf-1 receptor signaling that declines with age.

Why It's Used: Advanced anti-aging targeting the age-related decline in igf-1 signaling that contributes to reduced skin regeneration capacity.

How It Works: Binds igf-1 receptor activating pi3k/akt and ras/mapk signaling pathways for fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, collagen synthesis, and cell survival.

Typically Found In: Advanced anti-aging serums,regenerative skincare

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – recombinant human igf-1

Secondary Functions: Igf-1 receptor activation,cell proliferation,anabolic signaling

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–0.01%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – often biotechnology-derived

Halal Status: Conditional – verify production method

Source Notes: Produced by recombinant dna technology. pharmaceutical/biotechnology grade.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: Avoid with harsh ahas that may denature protein structure

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plasma and local igf-1 levels decline approximately 14% per decade after age 30. this igf-1 decline reduces fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis rates, contributing directly to the reduced dermal thickness and wrinkle formation observed in aging skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,smith et al. igf-1 skin aging review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Supports anti-aging skin structure by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis and modulating skin matrix metalloproteinase activity.

Why It's Used: Peptide sequences mimic endogenous skin communication molecules, triggering cellular responses that decline with age — restoring youthful skin structure.

How It Works: Specific amino acid sequences bind to cell surface receptors or penetrate to fibroblasts where they activate growth factor pathways, tgf-β signaling, or mmp-inhibiting mechanisms, stimulating ecm remodeling.

Typically Found In: Anti-aging serums,ampoules,eye creams,firming moisturizers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Bioactive peptides

Secondary Functions: Anti-aging,skin-conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or recombinant peptide; no animal-derived material.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Retinol,vitamin c,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide

Avoid Combining With: Proteolytic enzymes (papain, bromelain); extreme ph

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cosmetic peptides are typically 2–10 amino acids, short enough for transdermal penetration but specific enough for receptor binding. their bioactivity depends on sequence (primary structure), lipophilization (e.g., palmitoyl modification increases skin penetration 10-fold), and resistance to skin proteases — often achieved through d-amino acid substitution or terminal modifications.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; j pept sci peptide cosmetic reviews; j cosmet dermatol clinical studies

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides keratinocyte-specific growth factor stimulation for barrier repair and wound healing.

Why It's Used: Keratinocyte-selective growth factor — kgf selectively stimulates keratinocytes (not fibroblasts), providing targeted epithelial repair for barrier restoration without driving dermal fibroplasia.

How It Works: Binds fgfr2b receptor expressed specifically on keratinocytes (not fibroblasts). stimulates keratinocyte migration, proliferation, and differentiation. upregulates involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin for barrier protein synthesis. more keratinocyte-selective vs egf (which stimulates both keratinocytes and fibroblasts).

Typically Found In: Barrier repair products,wound healing,post-procedure recovery

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – recombinant kgf

Secondary Functions: Cell renewal,collagen stimulation,wound healing

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.0001%–0.01%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – recombinant

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Biotechnology-produced (recombinant or conditioned media).

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,peptides,antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: Avoid with harsh ahas that may denature protein structure

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Kgf's fgfr2b receptor selectivity is clinically exploited in wound healing: by stimulating only keratinocyte (epithelial) growth without fibroblast stimulation, kgf accelerates wound re-epithelialisation without increasing the risk of hypertrophic scarring that excessive fibroblast activation (from egf) can cause. pharmaceutical kgf (palifermin) is fda-approved for preventing oral mucositis, validating the keratinocyte selectivity mechanism.

Last Verified: Cosing database,rubin et al. kgf wound healing review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12