Kao - Segreta Premier Concentrated Serum Shampoo

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Adjusts ph to optimal ranges, chelates destabilizing metal ions, provides mild exfoliation at higher concentrations.

Why It's Used: Universal cosmetic ph adjuster and chelating agent. aha exfoliant activity is secondary.

How It Works: As ph adjuster, donates protons. as chelating agent, three carboxylic groups bind divalent metals (ca²⁺, mg²⁺, fe²⁺) preventing oxidative degradation.

Typically Found In: Nearly all cosmetic formulations,brightening products,exfoliants

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – alpha hydroxy acid (aha)

Secondary Functions: Chelating agent,ph adjustment,preservation enhancement

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic or fermentation-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Produced by fermentation of sugars by aspergillus niger. gras (e330). most abundant organic acid in citrus.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low at low concentrations; 2/5 at exfoliant concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Photosensitizing – mandatory spf use. start at low frequency.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – spf required

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at otc concentrations. eu: ≤10% leave-on at ph ≥3.5. mandatory spf advisory.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,ceramides,hyaluronic acid,spf

Avoid Combining With: Retinol in same step; multiple exfoliants simultaneously

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Three carboxylic acid groups provide multiple proton donation sites and stronger chelation than monocarboxylic ahas. this makes citric acid the preferred cosmetic chelating agent alongside edta.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Boosts foam, enhances mildness, and conditions skin and hair when combined with primary surfactants.

Why It's Used: The standard foam booster and mildness enhancer in virtually all shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers – provides synergistic mildness improvement with anionic surfactants.

How It Works: Amphoteric (zwitterionic) character provides positive charge interaction with hair keratin for antistatic conditioning. reduces irritation of co-formulated anionic surfactants via ionic complex formation. foam stabilization via bilayer reinforcement in foam lamellae.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,body washes,facial cleansers,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – amphoteric surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut fatty acids and dimethylaminopropylamine

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Capb's mildness-enhancing synergy with sls has a molecular mechanism: capb's positive imidazoline head group forms an ion pair complex with sls's anionic sulfate group, reducing sls's free monomer concentration (the irritation-causing species) without significantly reducing micelle-forming capacity (the cleansing species).

Last Verified: Cosing database,ananthapadmanabhan surfactant review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Boosts foam, enhances mildness, and conditions skin and hair when combined with primary surfactants.

Why It's Used: The standard foam booster and mildness enhancer in virtually all shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers – provides synergistic mildness improvement with anionic surfactants.

How It Works: Amphoteric (zwitterionic) character provides positive charge interaction with hair keratin for antistatic conditioning. reduces irritation of co-formulated anionic surfactants via ionic complex formation. foam stabilization via bilayer reinforcement in foam lamellae.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,body washes,facial cleansers,baby products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – amphoteric surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 2%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut fatty acids and dimethylaminopropylamine

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Capb's mildness-enhancing synergy with sls has a molecular mechanism: capb's positive imidazoline head group forms an ion pair complex with sls's anionic sulfate group, reducing sls's free monomer concentration (the irritation-causing species) without significantly reducing micelle-forming capacity (the cleansing species).

Last Verified: Cosing database,ananthapadmanabhan surfactant review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides metal ion chelation to prevent product degradation and boost preservative and antioxidant efficacy.

Why It's Used: The most essential stability ingredient in cosmetics — disodium edta's metal chelation prevents rancidity, discoloration, and preservative failure caused by trace metal contamination in virtually all aqueous cosmetic formulations.

How It Works: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid provides six potential coordination sites for metal ions (aminodiacetate groups). chelates ca²⁺, mg²⁺ (stability), fe³⁺ (fenton radical prevention), cu²⁺ (oxidase inhibition). disrupts gram-negative bacterial outer membrane by chelating membrane calcium, enhancing preservative penetration.

Typically Found In: Virtually all aqueous cosmetics — creams, lotions, shampoos, toners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – chelating agent

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.005%–0.1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Disodium edta's preservative potentiation against gram-negative bacteria is mechanistically elegant: gram-negative outer membranes contain lipopolysaccharide stabilised by calcium and magnesium bridges. edta chelates these metal ions, destabilising the lps layer and creating pores that allow hydrophobic preservatives (phenoxyethanol, parabens) to penetrate — converting gram-negative-resistant preservatives into broad-spectrum ones.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the complete fragrance profile contributing to product sensory experience and consumer appeal.

Why It's Used: Fragrance is a major consumer purchase driver — up to 70% of consumers make purchasing decisions partially based on product scent.

How It Works: Fragrance blends interact with olfactory receptors providing the sensory profile — complex mixtures activate multiple receptor types for rich, multidimensional scent experiences.

Typically Found In: All fragrance products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Standard use levels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ifra guidelines set usage limits for fragrance ingredients based on skin sensitisation and phototoxicity assessment for each application category.

Last Verified: Eu regulation 1223/2009 annex iii,ifra standards,fragrance allergen declaration requirements

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides mould and yeast focused broad-spectrum preservation in a widely accepted food-grade preservative.

Why It's Used: Standard mould and yeast preservative — potassium sorbate is effective at slightly higher ph than sodium benzoate, making it the preferred sorbate preservative for formulations at ph 4.5-6.

How It Works: Inactive salt form — sorbic acid (free acid, pka 4.76) is active. more effective than benzoate at higher ph (pka 4.76 vs benzoate 4.2). active at ph up to ~6.0 (meaningful sorbic acid present). inhibits malassezia and candida at lower concentrations than bacteria. synergistic with sodium benzoate.

Typically Found In: Cosmetics ph 4-6,natural preservation systems,combined with sodium benzoate

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – sorbate preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.6%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 0.6% cosmetics. fda gras. synergistic with sodium benzoate. oxidises to sorbaldehyde (yellow colouration) on uv exposure — protect from light.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Potassium sorbate's antifungal mechanism (disruption of mitochondrial electron transport in fungi) is different from its antibacterial mechanism (cell membrane and enzyme disruption). this mechanistic bifunctionality provides broad spectrum from a single preservative, though the lower antifungal mic values mean mould and yeast protection is achieved at lower concentrations than bacterial protection.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu preservative annex v,fda gras,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Preserves acidic formulations against yeast and mold contamination.

Why It's Used: Natural-derived (from benzoic acid found in cranberries, cinnamon) preservative for acidic ph formulations where it provides excellent antimicrobial activity.

How It Works: Undissociated benzoic acid (active form, pka 4.2) penetrates microbial cell membranes and disrupts electron transport chain and ph homeostasis. at ph>5, mostly ionized (sodium salt) and inactive – requires acidic formulation ph for efficacy.

Typically Found In: Acidic serums,toners,low-ph formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – benzoate preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from plant sources (cranberry, cinnamon) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 0.5%. gras food additive. ewg score: 3 (benzene formation concern with vitamin c at >80°c – normal use temperatures do not form benzene).

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium benzoate's strict ph dependency (90% inactive at ph>5.5) makes its preservative activity dramatically sensitive to formulation ph. a serum formulated at ph 4.0 is fully preserved by benzoate; the same formula adjusted to ph 5.5 has <10% of the preservative activity. this ph dependency must be considered in any benzoate-preserved formulation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,siegert & frieling benzoate review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium chloride has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sodium chloride technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium hydroxide has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sodium hydroxide technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides powerful cleansing and rich foam but with significant skin barrier disruption at typical concentrations.

Why It's Used: Despite its widespread use, sls is a known irritant and barrier disruptor – modern formulations are increasingly replacing sls with milder alternatives or reducing concentration and buffering with mild co-surfactants.

How It Works: Anionic sulfate headgroup binds to positively charged lysine/arginine residues in skin proteins (keratin, structural proteins) causing denaturation. also solubilizes stratum corneum lipids disrupting the barrier. 12-carbon chain provides optimal critical micelle concentration for cleansing.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,cleansers,toothpaste,foaming products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – primary anionic surfactant

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut or palm lauryl alcohol

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 4/5 – high; benchmark standard irritant in skin irritation tests

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – known barrier disruptor; avoid on compromised or eczema-prone skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-established safety profile but known irritant at typical use concentrations. standard positive control in skin irritation testing. ewg score: 3.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sls is the reference positive control in standardized skin irritation testing (patch test and episkin model) precisely because its irritation mechanism is well-characterized and reproducible. its use as a research tool has paradoxically generated the most comprehensive understanding of surfactant-induced skin barrier disruption of any cleansing ingredient.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ananthapadmanabhan surfactant review,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12