Honey Grail

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cocoglycerides has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cocoglycerides technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function — skin conditioning, protection, preservation, or active biological benefit — at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for its functional contribution and formulation compatibility — supported by cosmetic science literature and regulatory safety assessment.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical interaction with the formulation or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil delivers documented functional benefit with an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework (cosing eu, cir usa).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cocos nucifera (coconut) oil technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides emollient conditioning, essential fatty acid supplementation, and barrier lipid support from the natural triglyceride/wax ester composition.

Why It's Used: Natural carrier oils provide sc-compatible lipid composition for genuine barrier integration rather than surface-only occlusion.

How It Works: Fatty acid triglycerides integrate into sc lipid bilayers delivering oleic, linoleic, and linolenic acid for emolliency and barrier repair; essential fatty acids serve as ceramide biosynthesis precursors.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved for uv photoprotection and pathogen defence — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,crambe abyssinica seed oil botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides water-resistant cellulose film for sustained film formation and active encapsulation.

Why It's Used: Water-resistant cellulose film former for long-lasting topical products and active ingredient microencapsulation.

How It Works: Ethyl substitution makes cellulose hydrophobic. dissolves in organic solvents for application, depositing water-resistant film on evaporation. thermoplastic character enables heat processing. used in controlled-release applications for gradual active delivery.

Typically Found In: Long-lasting products,active encapsulation,film-coating applications

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – cellulose film former

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from cellulose (plant)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylcellulose's hydrophobic character (ethyl groups replacing hydroxyl groups) is in complete contrast to its parent cellulose (highly water-soluble hec or cmc). this inversion from hydrophilic to hydrophobic demonstrates that cellulose ether chemistry can produce nearly any desired polarity by choosing the substituting group – providing a family of cellulose derivatives spanning from highly hydrophilic (cmc) to highly hydrophobic (ethylcellulose).

Last Verified: Cosing database,dow ethocel technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from reactive oxygen species, reduces inflammatory cytokine production in skin, and conditions skin through the plant's phytochemical complex.

Why It's Used: Natural origin narrative, traditional use heritage, and multi-functional phytochemical profile supporting concurrent skin care claims from one ingredient.

How It Works: Polyphenols, terpenoids, and alkaloids scavenge ros via h• donation, inhibit nf-kb or cox-2 inflammatory pathways, and interact with skin surface proteins for conditioning.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care,natural products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Plant secondary metabolites evolved as photoprotectants and antimicrobials — mechanisms directly applicable to cosmetic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in human skin.

Last Verified: Cosing database,helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed botanical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides emollient conditioning from sc-compatible fatty acids and sterols with the lipid profile of hibiscus sabdariffa determining barrier repair and skin feel properties.

Why It's Used: Hibiscus sabdariffa seed oil is selected for the distinctive lipid profile of hibiscus sabdariffa — the specific efa and sterol composition determines spreading speed, occlusion level, and sc barrier integration properties unique to this botanical source.

How It Works: Botanical lipid: fatty acid triglycerides → sc barrier emolliency; phytosterols → sc barrier lipid integration; efa → ceramide precursor; sterol esters → enhanced sc penetration.

Typically Found In: Skin care,barrier repair

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Efa and sterol content should be verified — oxidative rancidity raises free radical load rather than reducing it.

Last Verified: Cosing database,hibiscus sabdariffa botanical lipid review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides elegant dry-touch emolliency with excellent solubilisation for active ingredients.

Why It's Used: Premium emollient solvent — octyldodecanol's branched c20 structure provides a uniquely dry, elegant emollient character with exceptional compatibility for challenging actives.

How It Works: Branched c20 fatty alcohol provides dry, non-greasy emolliency. excellent solvent for fat-soluble vitamins, retinoids, uv filters, and flavour compounds. lower viscosity than longer-chain fatty alcohols for elegant application. very good spreading coefficient for uniform application.

Typically Found In: Premium skincare,sunscreens,vitamin delivery systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from c10 alcohols via guerbet reaction (plant-derived)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Octyldodecanol is produced via the guerbet reaction — a base-catalysed self-condensation of two c10 alcohol molecules (decanol) yielding the branched c20 2-octyldodecanol. this reaction produces a highly branched structure that prevents crystallisation (liquid at room temperature), providing liquid-state emolliency with a completely different tactile profile than the waxy feel of linear c20 fatty alcohols.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Nourishes and softens skin through its balanced fatty acid profile, while antioxidant compounds protect against oxidative skin damage.

Why It's Used: Plant oils provide physiologically compatible lipid structures that integrate into the skin barrier and deliver fat-soluble antioxidants directly to skin cells.

How It Works: Fatty acids integrate into stratum corneum lipid lamellae, reinforcing the lipid barrier. antioxidants (tocopherols, carotenoids, polyphenols) neutralize ros through electron donation or singlet oxygen quenching.

Typically Found In: Face oils,serums,moisturizers,hair treatments,body oils

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Plant oils

Secondary Functions: Emollient,antioxidant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Cold-pressed or solvent-extracted plant oil; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1899-12-31 00:00:00 -0800

Comedogenicity Rating: 1900-01-01 00:00:00 -0800

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Vitamin e,ceramides,other plant oils,squalane

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizers (accelerate rancidity)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Vegetable oils are triglyceride matrices where the fatty acid composition determines skin compatibility, barrier function, and comedogenicity. oleic acid-rich oils (>60%) soften barrier lipids and enhance penetration; linoleic acid-rich oils reinforce ceramide-poor stratum corneum; saturated fatty acid-rich oils provide occlusion without skin penetration.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; aocs plant oil composition databases; fatty acid pharmacology reviews

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Softens and conditions skin with a light, non-greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Used for its premium rosehip oil variant; exceptionally high ala omega-3; anti-aging; brightening; skin repair emollient properties; suitable for lightweight skin care where non-greasy texture is key.

How It Works: Ester of rosa moschata (musk rose) (branched or specialty alcohol) with seed oil (ala ~33-35%, linoleic ~44-47%, oleic ~14%); branching reduces crystallinity and greasiness; provides smooth, dry-oil skin feel.

Typically Found In: Lightweight moisturizers,sunscreens,skin serums,body lotions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning,texture modification,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Rosa moschata (musk rose) and seed oil (ala ~33-35%, linoleic ~44-47%, oleic ~14%); plant or synthetic origin.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Generally well tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Other emollients,silicones,natural oils,humectants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Musk rose (rosa moschata) seed oil: ala ~33-35% (higher than most rosehip oils), linoleic ~44%; one of the richest plant sources of both omega-3 and omega-6; naturally occurring trans-retinoic acid traces; potent anti-aging and brightening; high pufa — use antioxidants.

Last Verified: Cosing database,inci dictionary

Primary Sources: 2026-03-28