Hair-Milk: Hydrating Leave-In Conditioner

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antimicrobial skin conditioning with deodorant activity and preservation system enhancement.

Why It's Used: Multifunctional clean beauty preservation active — ethylhexylglycerin provides antimicrobial, deodorant, and skin conditioning in a single ingredient accepted in most natural cosmetic certification schemes.

How It Works: Glycerol ether provides antimicrobial via bacterial membrane phospholipid disruption. deodorant activity via reduction of underarm lipase enzyme activity (similar mechanism to triethyl citrate). skin conditioning from glycerol humectant component. synergistic with phenoxyethanol and diols.

Typically Found In: Natural preservation systems,deodorants,skin conditioning products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – antimicrobial glycerol ether

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–0.5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ethylhexylglycerin's deodorant mechanism is pharmacologically identical to triethyl citrate: both inhibit skin surface microbial lipase enzymes that convert odourless triglycerides to odorous free fatty acids. the glycerol ether structure of ethylhexylglycerin, combined with the 2-ethylhexyl chain, provides lipase inhibition similar to ester-based lipase inhibitors from a different chemical class.

Last Verified: Cosing database,schülke sensiva sc 10 technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the gentlest chemical exfoliation with simultaneous antioxidant, moisture retention, and barrier support.

Why It's Used: Preferred exfoliant for rosacea, eczema, sensitive skin, and post-procedure recovery where standard ahas cause unacceptable irritation.

How It Works: Hydrolyzes slowly on skin surface to gluconic acid providing gentle exfoliation. multiple hydroxyl groups enable water binding (humectant) and metal chelation (antioxidant).

Typically Found In: Sensitive skin exfoliants,rosacea treatments,eczema care,post-procedure recovery

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – polyhydroxy acid (pha)

Secondary Functions: Gentle exfoliation,antioxidant,humectant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 5%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – fermentation or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fermentation-derived from glucose or synthetic. among the safest chemical exfoliants available.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: No photosensitization; no stinging; suitable for very sensitive skin.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, rosacea, and eczema-prone skin; no photosensitization

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptional safety profile. no photosensitization. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,soothing actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phas have molecular weights 2–3× larger than ahas, limiting penetration to superficial layers. combined humectant and antioxidant properties make them uniquely well-tolerated while providing meaningful exfoliation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,green & yu (2003) pha review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides non-ionic thickening compatible with anionic surfactants and electrolyte-containing formulations.

Why It's Used: Non-ionic cellulose thickener for surfactant systems where anionic/cationic thickener incompatibility is a concern.

How It Works: Hydroxyethyl substitution disrupts cellulose crystallinity enabling water solubility. non-ionic nature provides compatibility with anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants. pseudoplastic rheology provides shear-thinning for dispensing. film formation from cellulose backbone.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,body washes,clear gels,surfactant systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – cellulose thickener

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from cellulose (plant)

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Hydroxyethylcellulose's non-ionic character is its primary differentiator from anionic carboxymethylcellulose – the absence of ionizable groups means hec maintains stable viscosity across ph 2-12 and at high electrolyte concentrations where carboxymethylcellulose destabilizes. this ionic independence makes hec the preferred cellulose thickener for acidic and salt-containing formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ashland hec technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Panthenol deeply moisturizes skin and hair, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hair elasticity and shine.

Why It's Used: It is used because it is exceptionally versatile, working in both skin and hair formulations. it is gentle enough for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and converts to the active vitamin b5 within the skin.

How It Works: Panthenol penetrates skin and hair, where it is oxidized to pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), a coenzyme a precursor essential to metabolism. in skin, it acts as a humectant and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. in hair, it coats the shaft, improving manageability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,toners,after-sun products,wound healing products,shampoos,conditioners,hair masks,beard care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – provitamin b5

Secondary Functions: Anti-inflammatory,wound healing,hair conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5% (typical: 1–3%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetically produced

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially synthesized. both d- and dl-forms used in cosmetics; d-panthenol is the biologically active isomer but dl-panthenol is less expensive and widely used.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; one of the most soothing ingredients in cosmetics

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare contact allergy; considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients. suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes – ideal for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptionally safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or systemic toxicity. safe during pregnancy.

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,allantoin,niacinamide,centella asiatica,retinol (reduces irritation),glycerin

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Panthenol has demonstrated wound-healing properties in clinical studies, stimulating fibroblast proliferation and migration. its dual humectant and anti-inflammatory action makes it particularly effective in barrier-repair formulations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ebner et al. (2002) skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Deposits a conditioning film on hair and skin through electrostatic attraction to negative cuticle/corneocyte surfaces, reduces hair-on-hair friction for improved combability and detangling, eliminates static charge buildup, and provides anti-frizz humidity resistance.

Why It's Used: Cationic polymers are the primary hair conditioning technology — the permanent positive quaternary ammonium groups provide substantive deposition that resists rinsing, delivering persistent conditioning between washes unlike small-molecule cationic conditioners.

How It Works: At shampoo/conditioner ph 4.5–5.5, hair cuticle carries net negative charge (isoelectric point ph ~3.5). polyquaternium cations undergo electrostatic attraction depositing on the cuticle surface. during rinsing, the deposited polymer film persists from reduced surface-solution equilibrium at low bulk concentration — substantive deposition from favourable interfacial versus bulk partitioning.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,conditioners,leave-in products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Different polyquaternium numbers indicate different backbone chemistries: pq-7 (acrylamide/quaternary acrylate copolymer) for leave-on flexibility; pq-10 (hydroxyethylcellulose/quaternary ammonium) for substantive deposition; pq-11 (vp/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) for styling fixation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,polyquaternium-7 cationic conditioning deposition review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides endogenous-skin-identical emolliency with exceptional stability and skin compatibility.

Why It's Used: The most skin-compatible emollient – chemically identical to human sebum squalene component with outstanding tolerability across all skin types.

How It Works: Fully saturated hydrocarbon with zero oxidation sites provides exceptional stability unlike squalene's 6 double bonds. integrates into stratum corneum lipid bilayers with near-perfect biocompatibility. provides antioxidant protection to formulation via radical quenching.

Typically Found In: Facial oils,serums,non-comedogenic moisturizers,luxury body care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Maximum biocompatibility,antioxidant stabilizer,non-comedogenic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – plant-derived (sugarcane, olive) preferred; shark liver-derived being phased out

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived

Source Notes: Sustainable plant-derived squalane from sugarcane fermentation (amyris) or olive oil fractionation is preferred over shark liver-derived. chemically identical regardless of source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Squalene constitutes approximately 12-15% of human sebum – the highest proportion of any skin lipid. topical squalane (stable, hydrogenated form) replenishes this abundant endogenous skin lipid. the complete absence of oxidizable double bonds (unlike squalene's 6 double bonds) eliminates the pro-oxidant concerns of natural squalene oxidation.

Last Verified: Cosing database,huang et al. squalane review,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12