g HK glowup Brightening Sunscreen

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides combined uva and uvb filtration in a single chemical uv filter molecule.

Why It's Used: Combined uva+uvb filter historically used for broad-spectrum coverage in a single ingredient, now increasingly restricted.

How It Works: Benzophenone chromophore absorbs uvb (305nm) and uva-ii (326nm) via two separate n→π* transitions. water-soluble allows aqueous phase formulation. single filter providing partial broad-spectrum coverage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens (being phased out in many markets)

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – chemical uva/uvb filter

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Up to 6% (eu), 6% (us fda)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu max 6%. coral reef/aquatic toxicity — banned hawaii, palau, some us states. potential endocrine activity at high systemic exposure. ewg score: 7. use declining due to regulatory pressure.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Benzophenone-3's declining use reflects evolving understanding of environmental and endocrine impacts: discovered in coral bleaching studies, its restriction in hawaii (2018) sparked a global trend in marine-safe sunscreen formulations that is reshaping the industry away from bp-3 toward mineral filters and marine-safer organic alternatives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda uv filter otc monograph,hawaii bp-3 restriction law

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides colour in cosmetic formulations within the permitted application areas and concentrations specified by fda 21 cfr 73/74 and eu cosmetics regulation annex iv.

Why It's Used: Regulatory compliance requires verifying both the permitted use category (fd&c, d&c, ext. d&c) and the specific application area approval for each colorant in each target market.

How It Works: Colour arises from selective wavelength absorption by the chromophore structure — electronic transitions (d-orbital for transition metal pigments; π→π* for organic chromophores) absorb specific visible wavelengths providing the perceived complementary colour.

Typically Found In: Colour cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – mineral / metal active

Secondary Functions: Antimicrobial,sebum regulation,antioxidant enzyme cofactor

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Per product type — check fda/eu permitted list

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Mineral/inorganic compound. cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating at recommended concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes at recommended concentrations

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile at cosmetic concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,salicylic acid,other actives

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

All cosmetic colorants in the us require fda batch certification confirming identity and purity per lot — uncertified batches cannot legally appear in finished us cosmetics. eu annex iv lists permitted colorants with specific maximum concentrations and use restrictions by product category.

Last Verified: Fda 21 cfr 73/74,eu cosmetics regulation annex iv,colorant regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides antioxidant protection from polyphenol radical scavenging, anti-inflammatory activity from terpenoid nf-kb/cox inhibition, and skin conditioning from the secondary metabolite complex.

Why It's Used: Cynara scolymus leaf extract is selected for the characteristic secondary metabolite signature of cynara scolymus — whether polyphenols, terpenoids, alkaloids, or polysaccharides, the phytochemical profile provides antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, or skin conditioning benefits specific to this botanical species.

How It Works: Polyphenol catechol h-atom donation for ros scavenging (10⁶-10⁹ m⁻¹s⁻¹); terpenoids inhibit iκb kinase; flavonoids compete at cox-1/2; alkaloids modulate specific receptor targets.

Typically Found In: Botanical skin care

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Conditional

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Standardise to marker compounds for consistent bioactivity — field-grown material varies 3-10× in secondary metabolite content.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cynara scolymus leaf extract botanical extract review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Nourishes and softens skin through its balanced fatty acid profile, while antioxidant compounds protect against oxidative skin damage.

Why It's Used: Plant oils provide physiologically compatible lipid structures that integrate into the skin barrier and deliver fat-soluble antioxidants directly to skin cells.

How It Works: Fatty acids integrate into stratum corneum lipid lamellae, reinforcing the lipid barrier. antioxidants (tocopherols, carotenoids, polyphenols) neutralize ros through electron donation or singlet oxygen quenching.

Typically Found In: Face oils,serums,moisturizers,hair treatments,body oils

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Plant oils

Secondary Functions: Emollient,antioxidant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Cold-pressed or solvent-extracted plant oil; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 2

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Vitamin e,ceramides,other plant oils,squalane

Avoid Combining With: Strong oxidizers (accelerate rancidity)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Vegetable oils are triglyceride matrices where the fatty acid composition determines skin compatibility, barrier function, and comedogenicity. oleic acid-rich oils (>60%) soften barrier lipids and enhance penetration; linoleic acid-rich oils reinforce ceramide-poor stratum corneum; saturated fatty acid-rich oils provide occlusion without skin penetration.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; aocs plant oil composition databases; fatty acid pharmacology reviews

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides silicone-characteristic silky feel and skin protection with adjustable viscosity.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic silicone – sets the gold standard for silky application feel, spreadability, and skin protection in virtually all skin care categories.

How It Works: Polydimethylsiloxane chain flexibility provides extremely low surface tension and high spreadability. inert si-o backbone provides chemical stability and excellent skin tolerance. occlusive film formation reduces tewl. higher viscosity grades provide more intense conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,foundations,primers,sunscreens – nearly universal

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – polydimethylsiloxane

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Dimethicone's exceptional silky feel arises from its very low intermolecular attractive forces (weak van der waals forces due to non-polar methyl groups) that allow silicone chains to slide freely over skin. the coefficient of kinetic friction for pdms against skin (~0.04) is among the lowest of any cosmetic material – explaining why even small amounts transform product feel.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Absorbs uv radiation at specific wavelengths (uva 320–400 nm, uvb 290–320 nm) and dissipates photon energy as heat rather than skin-damaging photochemical reactions.

Why It's Used: Organic uv filters are chosen for their high molar extinction coefficient, specific spectral coverage, and formulation compatibility — individual filters are combined to provide broad-spectrum coverage across uva+uvb.

How It Works: Uv photon absorption by the aromatic chromophore π-system excites the molecule from s₀ ground state to s₁ excited state. rapid internal conversion or photoisomerisation dissipates energy as vibrational heat before it can initiate skin photodamage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,photoprotective products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Check local sunscreen regulations

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Organic uv filters require photostabilisation (by avobenzone-octocrylene pairing, or triazine stabilisers) as some absorbers degrade on uv exposure — formulator must verify photostability of the chosen filter combination.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate organic uv filter review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Absorbs uv radiation at specific wavelengths (uva 320–400 nm, uvb 290–320 nm) and dissipates photon energy as heat rather than skin-damaging photochemical reactions.

Why It's Used: Organic uv filters are chosen for their high molar extinction coefficient, specific spectral coverage, and formulation compatibility — individual filters are combined to provide broad-spectrum coverage across uva+uvb.

How It Works: Uv photon absorption by the aromatic chromophore π-system excites the molecule from s₀ ground state to s₁ excited state. rapid internal conversion or photoisomerisation dissipates energy as vibrational heat before it can initiate skin photodamage.

Typically Found In: Sunscreens,photoprotective products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Check local sunscreen regulations

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Organic uv filters require photostabilisation (by avobenzone-octocrylene pairing, or triazine stabilisers) as some absorbers degrade on uv exposure — formulator must verify photostability of the chosen filter combination.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ethylhexyl salicylate organic uv filter review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides oil absorption and matting from the fine platelet clay structure.

Why It's Used: Most versatile cosmetic clay – gentle enough for sensitive skin while providing effective oil absorption, matting, and mineral conditioning.

How It Works: 1:1 layered silicate clay platelets absorb oils via capillary action in inter-platelet spaces. very mild ph (6-7). white colour from al-o-si lattice. fine particle size (0.5-4μm) provides gentle exfoliation and smooth texture. negative surface charge provides light skin conditioning.

Typically Found In: Masks,foundations,dry shampoo,mattifying products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – white clay mineral

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Kaolin's oil absorption mechanism involves genuine capillary condensation of oils into the inter-platelet micropores between its layered silicate sheets. the surface area of cosmetic-grade kaolin (10-30 m²/g) provides thousands of square meters of oil-adsorbing surface per gram – explaining its exceptional mattifying efficacy despite its inert mineral composition.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides essential omega-6 fatty acid for ceramide-1-linoleate synthesis and anti-comedogenic barrier repair.

Why It's Used: The essential barrier-repair fatty acid – linoleic acid deficiency directly causes barrier dysfunction and acne-like lesions; topical replacement addresses this documented deficiency.

How It Works: Essential (cannot be synthesized) – must be supplied via diet or topically. incorporated into ceramide-1 via omega-hydroxylation to form the long-chain ceramide that seals corneocyte protein envelope. sebum linoleic acid deficiency in acne directly causes follicular plugging (comedogenesis).

Typically Found In: Barrier repair products,non-comedogenic oils,anti-acne lightweight oils

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – c18:2 omega-6 essential fatty acid

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from safflower, sunflower, hemp, and most seed oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic; anti-comedogenic mechanism

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Linoleic acid deficiency in sebum is a defining biochemical feature of acne-prone skin: sebum la concentration is 25-40% lower in acne patients vs controls. this deficiency impairs ceramide-1-linoleate synthesis, weakening the follicular barrier that normally prevents p. acnes colonization. topical linoleic acid directly supplements this deficient essential fatty acid – a targeted nutritional mechanism unique among anti-acne ingredients.

Last Verified: Cosing database,downing et al. linoleic acid acne study,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12