Exfoliating Polish

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant hydration and active ingredient solubilization with excellent skin feel.

Why It's Used: Preferred glycol humectant in premium and k-beauty formulations for superior skin feel vs propylene glycol with equivalent functionality.

How It Works: Two hydroxyl groups at 1,3-positions provide water binding and solvent activity. better tolerated than propylene glycol with minimal sensitization risk. 4-carbon backbone provides slightly greater hydrophobic character enabling dissolution of less polar actives vs pg.

Typically Found In: Toners,essences,serums,k-beauty formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycol humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

K-beauty's preference for butylene glycol over propylene glycol is driven by two factors: bg's superior skin feel (less tacky than pg's higher viscosity) and its lower sensitization potential (1,3-bg has better spatial distribution of hydroxyl groups that reduces protein interaction vs pg's 1,2-position oh groups).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides co-solvent and penetration enhancer in cosmetic formulations, improving active ingredient dissolution and product texture while delivering mild skin conditioning.

Why It's Used: Glycol solvents are essential for dissolving actives with limited water or oil solubility — the intermediate polarity of glycol ethers provides access to the wider solubility parameter space between pure water and oil phases.

How It Works: Hydroxyl and ether groups provide h-bonding for water miscibility; the organic chain provides compatibility with lipophilic actives. medium-chain glycols (c3–c6) provide the optimal balance of water compatibility, lipophilic active dissolution, and skin-compatible humectancy.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations,co-solvent systems

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycol ether co-solvents enhance sc penetration of co-applied actives by increasing their thermodynamic activity in the sc lipid phase — high thermodynamic activity (near saturation) drives diffusion by concentration gradient even when absolute concentration is low.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ethoxydiglycol glycol solvent review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides o/w emulsification with emolliency and skin feel improvement from a natural glycerol ester.

Why It's Used: Standard cosmetic monoglyceride emulsifier – widely used for o/w cream formation with clean, natural-origin credentials and good sensory profile.

How It Works: Monoglyceride structure (one fatty acid + glycerol) provides amphiphilic hlb ~3-4 for o/w emulsification when combined with higher hlb co-emulsifiers. forms alpha-gel lamellar structure with water for emulsion stabilization. direct skin conditioning via fatty acid film.

Typically Found In: Creams,lotions,moisturizers – standard in o/w emulsions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – monoglyceride emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable glycerol and stearic acid

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glyceryl stearate's alpha-gel lamellar phase formation (distinguishable by x-ray crystallography from beta crystalline phase) provides superior emulsion stability compared to its beta crystalline form. the alpha-gel phase creates a viscoelastic network that resists droplet coalescence – the fundamental mechanism behind gms's long use as a reliable primary emulsifier.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Magnesium oxide contributes its primary cosmetic function to formulations — improving skin feel, stability, performance, or delivering a specific active benefit depending on its chemical class and concentration level.

Why It's Used: Formulators choose magnesium oxide for its established efficacy in contributing the required functional property to their formulation — whether rheological control, active delivery, aesthetic enhancement, or preservation — supported by the cosmetic chemistry literature and regulatory assessment framework.

How It Works: Magnesium oxide works through the characteristic mechanism of its chemical class — either through physicochemical interaction with the formulation matrix (surface activity, film formation, viscosity building) or through biological interaction with skin tissues (receptor binding, enzymatic substrate, barrier component integration). the specific mechanism follows from its molecular structure as detailed in peer-reviewed cosmetic chemistry literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Magnesium oxide has been assessed within the regulatory framework applicable to cosmetic ingredients. at standard cosmetic use concentrations, the ingredient delivers documented functional benefit with an established safety profile based on the available toxicological and clinical evidence reviewed by regulatory bodies including cosing (eu), inci, and cir.

Last Verified: Cosing database,magnesium oxide technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Oleth-20 emulsifies oil-phase ingredients into water-based formulations and solubilises oils and fragrances into aqueous systems, producing stable o/w emulsions and clear microemulsions. the 20-eo chain length sets its hlb value, determining whether it functions best as a primary emulsifier, co-emulsifier, or wetting agent.

Why It's Used: Formulators choose oleth-20 when cold-temperature stability is required — a common failure mode with saturated fatty alcohol ethoxylates (ceteth, steareth) is crystallisation or phase separation at refrigerator temperatures (4–10°c) during storage and shipping. the oleyl chain's cis geometry physically prevents the close-packing needed for crystal formation, ensuring consistent product performance from manufacturing through consumer use. it is also preferred for fragrance solubilisation in clear tonics and mists where a turbid emulsion would be commercially unacceptable.

How It Works: Oleth-20 functions as a surfactant through its amphiphilic architecture: the c18:1 oleyl hydrophobic tail inserts into oil droplets or fragrance molecules while the 20-unit polyethylene glycol chain extends into the water phase, thermodynamically stabilising the interface. the 20 ethylene oxide units provide an hlb of approximately 12 placing it in the o/w emulsification range. crucially, the cis double bond at c9–c10 of the oleyl chain introduces a 30° geometric kink that sterically prevents parallel chain alignment — the prerequisite for crystalline packing — so the ethoxylate remains liquid down to well below 0°c and never forms the waxy precipitates seen with saturated equivalents.

Typically Found In: O/w emulsions,fragrance solubilisers,clear tonic formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Oleyl vs cetyl ethoxylate cold stability: ceteth (c16:0 saturated) ethoxylates crystallise at 10–25°c from efficient parallel chain packing. oleth (c18:1 cis) resists crystallisation below –10°c because the cis double bond introduces a 30° kink at c9 that prevents the parallel chain arrangement required for crystal nucleation. a single double bond provides ~30°c lower crystallisation temperature from geometric prevention of crystal lattice formation — a fundamental principle of lipid biophysics applied to surfactant cold-stability engineering.

Last Verified: Cosing database,oleth-20 oleyl ethoxylate cold stability review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides high-hlb o/w emulsification as a co-emulsifier partner in standard cream formulations.

Why It's Used: Standard high-hlb co-emulsifier for gms/fatty alcohol/peg-100 stearate classic cream formulation systems.

How It Works: High peg chain length provides hlb ~18 for strong water-phase affinity. combined with low-hlb gms (hlb ~3) at appropriate ratio achieves target hlb for stable o/w emulsification. high hydrophilicity also provides solubilization of oil-soluble ingredients.

Typically Found In: Classic creams and lotions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – peg ester emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – peg from petroleum; stearate from vegetable

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: peg compounds may contain 1,4-dioxane impurity from peg manufacture. quality-grade peg-100 stearate should have <10ppm 1,4-dioxane.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Peg-100 stearate's hlb value of ~18 paired with gms's hlb of ~3 provides the classic 'required hlb matching' for emulsification of common cosmetic oils. when combined at approximately a 1:3 gms:peg-100 ratio, the blended hlb (~7) matches the required hlb of most mineral and vegetable oils, providing the theoretical basis for one of the most widely used cream formulation systems.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Peg-8 has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,peg-8 technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides deodorant activity through alkaline ph inhibition of odour bacteria and direct neutralisation of acid odour compounds.

Why It's Used: The most recognised natural deodorant ingredient with the simplest, cleanest formula and dual antibacterial/neutralisation mechanism.

How It Works: Nahco₃ + h⁺ → na⁺ + h₂o + co₂ (acid neutralisation). maintains skin surface ph 7–8 inhibiting odour bacteria optimal at ph 4.5–6.5. directly neutralises acidic vocs (propionic acid, isovaleric acid).

Typically Found In: Natural deodorant sticks,clean beauty deodorant

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional/active – baking soda deodorant/buffer

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural or synthetic mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Skin irritation common at high concentrations (>10%). can cause contact dermatitis in underarm skin at ph 8–9.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium bicarbonate's contact dermatitis risk in natural deodorants arises from ph disruption: the underarm skin is naturally acidic (ph 4.5–5.5), and baking soda at typical concentrations creates ph 8–9, disrupting the acid mantle and causing irritant contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Trihydroxystearin has an established safety profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,trihydroxystearin technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12