EltaMD Foaming Facial Cleanser 100mL

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides versatile acrylic film formation and thickening across broad ph range.

Why It's Used: Versatile workhorse polymer for film formation and thickening across diverse cosmetic product types from acidic aha serums to alkaline cleansers.

How It Works: Copolymer of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters. thickens via polymer chain entanglement and electrostatic repulsion. film formation from chain entanglement on water evaporation. broad ph stability from balanced acid/neutral monomer composition.

Typically Found In: Serums,lotions,sunscreens — versatile across formulation types

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – acrylic film former

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Acrylates copolymers' broad ph thickening stability (vs carbomer's ph-sensitive thickening, requiring neutralisation for viscosity) enables thickening of acidic aha serums (ph 3-4) without neutralisation — maintaining the low ph required for aha efficacy while providing viscosity control. this acid-stable thickening is impossible with conventional carbomers.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides gentle enzymatic exfoliation with anti-inflammatory and anti-edema activity beyond simple keratolysis.

Why It's Used: Multi-function enzyme providing exfoliation + anti-inflammatory activity – ideal for post-procedure formulations requiring both resurfacing and calming.

How It Works: Cysteine protease digests keratin for exfoliation (similar to papain). additionally inhibits nf-kb, reduces prostaglandin e2, and breaks down fibrin (anti-edema). anti-inflammatory activity is retained at sub-exfoliating concentrations for standalone soothing use.

Typically Found In: Enzyme peels,post-procedure products,anti-inflammatory serums,brightening masks

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – enzyme

Secondary Functions: Dual exfoliation+anti-inflammatory,fibrin dissolution

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from ananas comosus stem

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived (papaya, pineapple) or fermentation-derived.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2/5 – low to moderate

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Patch test recommended; potential for enzymatic sensitization.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Use with caution – potential sensitization

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe at cosmetic concentrations. patch test recommended. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Ahas (synergistic),hyaluronic acid,ceramides

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations on sensitive or compromised skin

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Bromelain's fibrinolytic activity (dissolving fibrin that accumulates at wound and inflammation sites) is a unique enzyme property not shared by papain. this fibrin dissolution reduces the persistent edema that characterizes chronic post-inflammatory states, making bromelain uniquely valuable in post-procedure inflammation management.

Last Verified: Cosing database,akhtar et al. bromelain anti-inflammatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Magnesium silicate contributes its primary cosmetic function to formulations — improving skin feel, stability, performance, or delivering a specific active benefit depending on its chemical class and concentration level.

Why It's Used: Formulators choose magnesium silicate for its established efficacy in contributing the required functional property to their formulation — whether rheological control, active delivery, aesthetic enhancement, or preservation — supported by the cosmetic chemistry literature and regulatory assessment framework.

How It Works: Magnesium silicate works through the characteristic mechanism of its chemical class — either through physicochemical interaction with the formulation matrix (surface activity, film formation, viscosity building) or through biological interaction with skin tissues (receptor binding, enzymatic substrate, barrier component integration). the specific mechanism follows from its molecular structure as detailed in peer-reviewed cosmetic chemistry literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Magnesium silicate has been assessed within the regulatory framework applicable to cosmetic ingredients. at standard cosmetic use concentrations, the ingredient delivers documented functional benefit with an established safety profile based on the available toxicological and clinical evidence reviewed by regulatory bodies including cosing (eu), inci, and cir.

Last Verified: Cosing database,magnesium silicate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers targeted skin-conditioning or bioactive benefits through a specific mechanism of action suited to the formulation's intended purpose.

Why It's Used: Specialty actives address specific skin concerns through targeted molecular mechanisms, providing efficacy beyond what base formulation ingredients alone can achieve.

How It Works: The bioactive compound interacts with specific molecular targets in skin cells or the extracellular matrix — enzymes, receptors, structural proteins, or signaling molecules — triggering beneficial biological responses.

Typically Found In: Serums,treatments,moisturizers,specialty products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Specialty actives

Secondary Functions: Skin-conditioning,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Specialty active ingredient; check individual sourcing for vegan status.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,vitamin c,peptides

Avoid Combining With: Incompatible with oxidizing agents; check ph stability

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Specialty actives typically work through enzyme inhibition (e.g., tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, mmp inhibition for anti-aging), receptor activation (e.g., retinoid receptors, ppar-γ for barrier genes), or transcription factor modulation (e.g., nrf2 for antioxidant gene upregulation). structure-activity relationships determine potency and selectivity.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Creates a smooth, silky skin feel, reduces friction, and forms a breathable film on skin that enhances product application and wear.

Why It's Used: Silicones provide unmatched aesthetic elegance, thermal stability, and formulation flexibility that enhance both consumer experience and product performance.

How It Works: Siloxane backbone provides a flexible, chemically inert polymer that forms thin, breathable films on skin surface, filling surface irregularities and providing low surface energy for exceptional slip and spreadability.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,primers,foundations,sunscreens,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Silicones

Secondary Functions: Emollient,film former

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic silicone polymer; not plant-derived but generally considered vegan.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Other emollients,uv filters,pigments

Avoid Combining With: Silicone-sensitive formulations; biodegradability concerns in eco-formulations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Silicone polymers are poly(dimethylsiloxane) backbones with si-o bond energy (105 kcal/mol) significantly higher than c-c (83 kcal/mol), providing exceptional thermal and oxidative stability. the low surface energy (21 mn/m vs 30+ mn/m for organic polymers) accounts for silicone's unique slip feel, and the si-o bond's flexibility (rotation barrier ~0.3 kcal/mol) enables fluid behavior across wide temperature ranges.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Helps create stable w/o emulsions and keeps mineral sunscreen ingredients evenly dispersed.

Why It's Used: Phsa is specifically valuable in sunscreen formulations for stabilizing mineral sunscreens (tio2/zno) in w/o emulsions and for dispersing mineral pigments in color cosmetics.

How It Works: Polymerized 12-hydroxystearic acid forms a coiled polymer structure that adsorbs onto mineral particle surfaces; stabilizes pigment/sunscreen dispersions by steric exclusion; enables stable w/o emulsions with mineral uv filters.

Typically Found In: Mineral sunscreens,color cosmetics,w/o emulsions,pigment dispersions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Dispersing agent,pigment dispersing,w/o emulsification

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Polymerized 12-hydroxystearic acid from hydrogenated castor oil (ricinus communis); naturally derived.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low

Sensitivity Concerns: Generally well tolerated. used extensively in sunscreen formulation.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Hydrogenated castor oil derivatives,mineral sunscreens (tio2/zno),mineral pigments,w/o emulsifiers

Avoid Combining With: Not compatible with highly aqueous systems (lipophilic polymer)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polyhydroxystearic acid (phsa) is a specialty polymer emulsifier derived from ricinoleic acid polymerization; it adsorbs onto mineral particle surfaces via the terminal carboxylic acid, with the polymer chains providing steric stabilization of the particle dispersion.

Last Verified: Cosing database,inci dictionary,croda hypermer sunscreen technology,european sunscreen association

Primary Sources: 2026-03-27

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Loosens corneocyte adhesion in the stratum corneum, accelerating cell turnover, refining skin texture, and improving radiance.

Why It's Used: Organic acids at cosmetic ph values provide controlled keratolytic exfoliation that improves skin texture, pore appearance, and radiance without mechanical irritation.

How It Works: At appropriate ph, the acid's undissociated form penetrates the stratum corneum and dissolves the ionic bonds between corneocyte desmosomes (calcium chelation mechanism), facilitating controlled desquamation and cell renewal.

Typically Found In: Toners,exfoliants,serums,peels,cleansers

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Exfoliants

Secondary Functions: Brightening,keratolytic

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or plant-derived acid; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: May cause irritation or stinging in sensitive or barrier-compromised skin at high concentrations; patch test recommended.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Conditional

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Safe within recommended ph and concentration ranges. sensitization risk increases above 10% aha. patch test recommended for sensitive skin. mildly irritating to some individuals at typical cosmetic use concentrations.

Works Well With: Niacinamide,hyaluronic acid,ceramides,vitamin c

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations on sensitive/broken skin; avoid with physical exfoliants

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cosmetic acids function at the pka boundary: only the undissociated acid (rcooh) penetrates the stratum corneum lipid barrier, while the ionized carboxylate (rcoo⁻) does not. the henderson-hasselbalch equation governs the fraction of active species at formulation ph; typically 0.5–3.0% undissociated acid provides efficacy while minimizing irritation.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Sodium cocoyl glycinate has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sodium cocoyl glycinate technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12