Dermafique Sun Defense Gel Crème, SPF 30, PA +++ Sunscreen 50g, Prevents Tanning & Pigmentation

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the characteristic sweet hay-vanilla warmth central to fougère fragrance compositions.

Why It's Used: The fougère fragrance family-defining compound – coumarin is the essential warm-sweet note in lavender-oakmoss-coumarin fougère compositions that define men's cologne classics.

How It Works: Bicyclic lactone provides sweet hay-vanilla scent from its conjugated carbonyl system. good skin absorption for lasting fragrance. low volatility provides fixative properties.

Typically Found In: Fougère fragrances,men's cologne,warm oriental fragrances

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – lactone

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic; natural from dipteryx odorata

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines restrict due to hepatotoxicity at high oral doses (not from topical use).

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Coumarin's natural source (tonka beans, dipteryx odorata) led to its historical use in food flavouring until toxicological studies revealed hepatotoxicity at high oral doses. the restriction of coumarin from food flavouring (eu and fda) drove fragrance reformulation in some cosmetic categories, though topical exposure levels from cosmetics are orders of magnitude below hepatotoxic doses.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides a dry, weightless application vehicle that evaporates cleanly leaving actives and non-volatile silicones deposited on skin — eliminating the residual heaviness of conventional liquid carrier solvents.

Why It's Used: Cyclosiloxanes are the unique volatile silicone solvents that dissolve non-volatile silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), organic uv filters, and lipophilic actives, providing the sensory-superior dry-touch application experience in premium formulations.

How It Works: Cyclosiloxane vapour pressure (d5 cyclopentasiloxane ~0.3 mmhg at 25°c) provides clean evaporation at body temperature. the cyclic ring structure provides lower boiling point than equivalent linear dimethicone, enabling faster evaporation while the ring conformation maintains the silicone's low surface energy for smooth application.

Typically Found In: Primers,antiperspirants,sunscreens

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cyclopentasiloxane (d5) and cyclohexasiloxane (d6) are under eu regulatory review for potential environmental persistence (pbt assessment) — formulators should monitor eu regulation 2018/35 implementation for restrictions in wash-off products.

Last Verified: Cosing database,eu cyclosiloxane regulatory review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the complete fragrance profile contributing to product sensory experience and consumer appeal.

Why It's Used: Fragrance is a major consumer purchase driver — up to 70% of consumers make purchasing decisions partially based on product scent.

How It Works: Fragrance blends interact with olfactory receptors providing the sensory profile — complex mixtures activate multiple receptor types for rich, multidimensional scent experiences.

Typically Found In: All fragrance products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Standard use levels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ifra guidelines set usage limits for fragrance ingredients based on skin sensitisation and phototoxicity assessment for each application category.

Last Verified: Eu regulation 1223/2009 annex iii,ifra standards,fragrance allergen declaration requirements

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fresh rose-geranium floral scent with antimicrobial activity.

Why It's Used: The rose fragrance terpene – geraniol defines the fresh, sweet rose-geranium note found in more than 60 essential oils and is essential for recreating natural floral fragrance profiles.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol inhibits bacterial membrane integrity for antimicrobial activity. activates trpv1 for anti-nociception. inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity. antioxidant via allylic radical scavenging.

Typically Found In: Rose-scented products,floral fragrances,natural cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – acyclic monoterpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from rose, geranium, palmarosa oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Geraniol's isomers (geraniol, nerol, citronellol) provide subtly different scent characters despite identical molecular formulae (c10h18o): geraniol provides the sweet, fresh rose note while its z-isomer nerol has a more delicate, neroli-like character. these isomeric scent differences arise from different spatial presentation of the hydroxyl and double bond groups to the olfactory receptor – demonstrating the extraordinary structural sensitivity of olfactory perception.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides ultra-lightweight dry-touch emolliency with excellent pigment dispersion for lightweight formulations.

Why It's Used: Premium lightweight emollient for dry-touch formulations — isohexadecane's highly branched structure provides the lightest, driest application feel of common cosmetic hydrocarbons.

How It Works: Highly branched c16 isoparaffin provides very low surface tension for fast spreading. completely non-polar structure provides no water retention (dry feel). excellent pigment wetting for colour cosmetics. very low viscosity (2.5 cst) for fluid application.

Typically Found In: Lightweight foundations,sunscreens,colour cosmetics,dry-touch products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – branched hydrocarbon emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic hydrocarbon

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Isohexadecane's highly branched structure (methyl-substituted hexadecane) prevents the close molecular packing that creates liquid crystalline phases in linear hydrocarbons, resulting in a permanently disordered liquid state with very low viscosity and surface tension. this structural disorder from branching is the molecular basis for the lighter, faster-spreading application feel vs equivalent linear hydrocarbons.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides ultra-lightweight dry-touch emolliency with excellent pigment dispersion for lightweight formulations.

Why It's Used: Premium lightweight emollient for dry-touch formulations — isohexadecane's highly branched structure provides the lightest, driest application feel of common cosmetic hydrocarbons.

How It Works: Highly branched c16 isoparaffin provides very low surface tension for fast spreading. completely non-polar structure provides no water retention (dry feel). excellent pigment wetting for colour cosmetics. very low viscosity (2.5 cst) for fluid application.

Typically Found In: Lightweight foundations,sunscreens,colour cosmetics,dry-touch products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – branched hydrocarbon emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic hydrocarbon

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Isohexadecane's highly branched structure (methyl-substituted hexadecane) prevents the close molecular packing that creates liquid crystalline phases in linear hydrocarbons, resulting in a permanently disordered liquid state with very low viscosity and surface tension. this structural disorder from branching is the molecular basis for the lighter, faster-spreading application feel vs equivalent linear hydrocarbons.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the defining fresh citrus fragrance note alongside solvent and antimicrobial properties.

Why It's Used: The citrus industry's primary fragrance compound and the most abundant terpene in essential oils – limonene provides the clean, universally appealing fresh citrus scent character.

How It Works: D-limonene activates trpv1 mildly at high concentrations. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. solvent for oils and lipophilic compounds. cleaning via emulsification of lipid soils.

Typically Found In: Citrus-scented products,cleaning products,fragrance compounds

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – cyclic monoterpene

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from citrus peel essential oils

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen. oxidises to sensitising compounds (limonene hydroperoxides) on air exposure – use with antioxidant stabilisers. ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Limonene's sensitisation risk arises not from limonene itself but from its autooxidation products (limonene-1,2-epoxide and limonene hydroperoxides) formed on air exposure. fresh limonene has low sensitisation potential, but air-oxidised limonene's hydroperoxide products are potent skin sensitisers. this explains why oxidation-stabilised formulations (with bht or other antioxidants) are required to manage limonene safety.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,bråred christensson et al. limonene oxidation study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most common natural floral-citrus fragrance note with additional anti-inflammatory properties.

Why It's Used: The most abundant fragrance terpene in nature – linalool forms the primary scent character of lavender, responsible for lavender's documented aromatherapy calming effects.

How It Works: Monoterpene alcohol activates gaba-a receptors for anti-anxiety activity (same receptor as benzodiazepines). inhibits glutamate-induced excitotoxicity. antimicrobial via membrane disruption. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition.

Typically Found In: Virtually all fragranced cosmetics

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Fragrance component – tertiary terpene alcohol

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.001%–3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from lavender, coriander, bergamot

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: declared fragrance allergen on label when >0.001% (leave-on) or >0.01% (rinse-off). ifra guidelines apply.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Linalool's gaba-a receptor activation provides a pharmacological basis for lavender aromatherapy's documented anxiolytic effects. the same receptor modulation used by benzodiazepine drugs (such as diazepam) is activated by inhaled linalool vapor, providing receptor-mediated calming without the tolerance and dependence associated with pharmaceutical gaba-a modulators.

Last Verified: Cosing database,ifra standards,elisabetsky et al. linalool gaba study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12