DermaControl Purifying Clay Mask

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides thixotropic clay gellation and deep oil absorption from swelling smectite clay.

Why It's Used: Strongest adsorbing clay for deep cleansing masks – bentonite's high cation exchange capacity and swelling capacity provide the deepest oil and toxin adsorption of common cosmetic clays.

How It Works: Montmorillonite 2:1 layered silicate swells up to 15× in water via interlayer water absorption. very high cation exchange capacity (cec: 80-150 meq/100g) provides exceptional adsorption of cations, oils, and toxins. thixotropic gel provides 'mask that hardens' sensory experience.

Typically Found In: Clay masks,deep cleansing products,detoxifying formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – swelling clay mineral

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Bentonite's extraordinary swelling (up to 15× dry volume) arises from its 2:1 layer structure: sodium bentonite's inter-layer sodium cations attract very thick water shells, forcing the silicate layers apart by electrostatic repulsion. calcium bentonite swells only 2-3× by comparison, explaining why sodium-exchanged bentonite is the industrial standard for swelling applications.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides fatty alcohol emulsification and thickening for stable, well-textured emulsions.

Why It's Used: The most widely used fatty alcohol in cosmetics – provides emulsification, thickening, and emolliency simultaneously from a single ingredient with excellent safety profile.

How It Works: Forms bilayer lamellar structures in water with emulsifiers creating a viscous structured network that thickens and stabilizes emulsions. fatty alcohol emolliency provides direct skin conditioning. bilayer formation reduces inter-droplet coalescence in emulsions.

Typically Found In: Creams,lotions,conditioners – virtually all emulsion products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – fatty alcohol emulsifier/thickener

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–25%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable or coconut/palm fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Cetearyl alcohol's ability to form lamellar liquid crystal structures ('krafft phases') with water and co-emulsifiers provides not only emulsion stability but also enhanced skin penetration via the lamellar skin barrier pathway. these crystalline structures can act as a reservoir for active ingredients, slowly releasing them as the lamellar structure melts on skin contact.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides o/w emulsification with emolliency and skin feel improvement from a natural glycerol ester.

Why It's Used: Standard cosmetic monoglyceride emulsifier – widely used for o/w cream formation with clean, natural-origin credentials and good sensory profile.

How It Works: Monoglyceride structure (one fatty acid + glycerol) provides amphiphilic hlb ~3-4 for o/w emulsification when combined with higher hlb co-emulsifiers. forms alpha-gel lamellar structure with water for emulsion stabilization. direct skin conditioning via fatty acid film.

Typically Found In: Creams,lotions,moisturizers – standard in o/w emulsions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – monoglyceride emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable glycerol and stearic acid

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glyceryl stearate's alpha-gel lamellar phase formation (distinguishable by x-ray crystallography from beta crystalline phase) provides superior emulsion stability compared to its beta crystalline form. the alpha-gel phase creates a viscoelastic network that resists droplet coalescence – the fundamental mechanism behind gms's long use as a reliable primary emulsifier.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides oil absorption and matting from the fine platelet clay structure.

Why It's Used: Most versatile cosmetic clay – gentle enough for sensitive skin while providing effective oil absorption, matting, and mineral conditioning.

How It Works: 1:1 layered silicate clay platelets absorb oils via capillary action in inter-platelet spaces. very mild ph (6-7). white colour from al-o-si lattice. fine particle size (0.5-4μm) provides gentle exfoliation and smooth texture. negative surface charge provides light skin conditioning.

Typically Found In: Masks,foundations,dry shampoo,mattifying products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – white clay mineral

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – natural mineral

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Kaolin's oil absorption mechanism involves genuine capillary condensation of oils into the inter-platelet micropores between its layered silicate sheets. the surface area of cosmetic-grade kaolin (10-30 m²/g) provides thousands of square meters of oil-adsorbing surface per gram – explaining its exceptional mattifying efficacy despite its inert mineral composition.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides high-hlb o/w emulsification as a co-emulsifier partner in standard cream formulations.

Why It's Used: Standard high-hlb co-emulsifier for gms/fatty alcohol/peg-100 stearate classic cream formulation systems.

How It Works: High peg chain length provides hlb ~18 for strong water-phase affinity. combined with low-hlb gms (hlb ~3) at appropriate ratio achieves target hlb for stable o/w emulsification. high hydrophilicity also provides solubilization of oil-soluble ingredients.

Typically Found In: Classic creams and lotions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – peg ester emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – peg from petroleum; stearate from vegetable

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation: peg compounds may contain 1,4-dioxane impurity from peg manufacture. quality-grade peg-100 stearate should have <10ppm 1,4-dioxane.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Peg-100 stearate's hlb value of ~18 paired with gms's hlb of ~3 provides the classic 'required hlb matching' for emulsification of common cosmetic oils. when combined at approximately a 1:3 gms:peg-100 ratio, the blended hlb (~7) matches the required hlb of most mineral and vegetable oils, providing the theoretical basis for one of the most widely used cream formulation systems.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the highest level of skin occlusion and wound healing protection of any cosmetic ingredient.

Why It's Used: The most effective skin barrier protection ingredient available – fda-approved otc skin protectant with unparalleled occlusive moisturization and wound healing evidence.

How It Works: Semi-solid blend of long-chain hydrocarbons creates an extremely cohesive, impermeable occlusive film. physically prevents bacterial and irritant ingress while completely preventing tewl. does not absorb into skin. promotes moist wound healing environment by maintaining wound surface hydration.

Typically Found In: Intensive moisturizers,wound healing ointments,lip balms,baby products,eczema treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – petroleum ointment base / gold-standard occlusive

Secondary Functions: Maximum occlusion,wound healing,otc skin protectant

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–100%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – petroleum-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic (clinical evidence)

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Fda category i grase otc skin protectant. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Petrolatum's wound healing mechanism (moist wound healing) was first systematically studied by george winter (1962) and demonstrated that wounds heal 2× faster under occlusion than air-exposed. all subsequent wound dressings and occlusive skin treatments are based on this fundamental finding, with petrolatum remaining the most effective occlusive agent 60 years later.

Last Verified: Cosing database,fda otc skin protectant monograph,winter (1962) moist wound healing study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant and solvent functionality from sustainable corn-based fermentation.

Why It's Used: Bio-based propylene glycol alternative from renewable corn — propanediol provides equivalent functionality to propylene glycol with sustainable renewable feedstock and superior skin feel.

How It Works: Two oh groups provide humectant water binding. excellent solvent for fragrances, actives, and preservatives. mild antimicrobial from diol structure for preservative system boosting. renew corn fermentation origin (dupont zemea process). better skin feel than propylene glycol — less sticky.

Typically Found In: Virtually all cosmetic categories as pg alternative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from corn sugar fermentation

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Propanediol's dupont tate & lyle bio products 'zemea' process ferments corn sugar to 1,3-propanediol using engineered e. coli — one of the first commercially viable bio-fermentation routes to a cosmetic diol previously made only from petroleum. the renewable route produces chemically identical 1,3-propanediol while reducing carbon footprint by approximately 40% vs petrochemical synthesis.

Last Verified: Cosing database,dupont tate & lyle zemea technical data,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides rich c18 fatty alcohol emolliency and thickening for stable, rich-textured emulsions.

Why It's Used: Higher-melting fatty alcohol for rich creams and buttery textures requiring a heavier emollient contribution.

How It Works: C18 chain length with higher melting point (60°c) than cetyl alcohol provides firmer lamellar structure for more viscous, richer emulsions. greater waxy character provides more occlusive emollient film than c16. stronger emulsion stabilization from more ordered lamellar network.

Typically Found In: Rich creams,body butters,intensive conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – fatty alcohol emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–15%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from vegetable or coconut/palm fatty acids

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Stearyl alcohol's higher melting point (60°c) relative to cetyl alcohol (49°c) arises from the additional two-carbon chain length enabling tighter packing of fatty alcohol molecules in the crystalline state. this tighter packing provides more viscous lamellar phases that create richer, creamier emulsion textures – directly explaining why products formulated with stearyl vs cetyl alcohol have notably different sensory profiles.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12