Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm - Purifying

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides humectant hydration and active ingredient solubilization with excellent skin feel.

Why It's Used: Preferred glycol humectant in premium and k-beauty formulations for superior skin feel vs propylene glycol with equivalent functionality.

How It Works: Two hydroxyl groups at 1,3-positions provide water binding and solvent activity. better tolerated than propylene glycol with minimal sensitization risk. 4-carbon backbone provides slightly greater hydrophobic character enabling dissolution of less polar actives vs pg.

Typically Found In: Toners,essences,serums,k-beauty formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – glycol humectant

Secondary Functions: Tewl reduction,skin plumping

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or naturally derived. excellent aqueous solubility.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; suitable for all skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Ceramides,emollients,occlusives,glycerin,hyaluronic acid

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

K-beauty's preference for butylene glycol over propylene glycol is driven by two factors: bg's superior skin feel (less tacky than pg's higher viscosity) and its lower sensitization potential (1,3-bg has better spatial distribution of hydroxyl groups that reduces protein interaction vs pg's 1,2-position oh groups).

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Lightweight, stable emollient that solubilizes oil-soluble actives for excellent delivery without greasy feel.

Why It's Used: Universal lightweight emollient base and solubilizer for oil-soluble actives in serums and low-viscosity formulations where mineral oil or petrolatum would be too heavy.

How It Works: Medium-chain length provides ideal balance of spreading coefficient, penetration rate, and barrier-sealing properties. excellent solubilizer for vitamin e, retinoids, and other lipophilic actives.

Typically Found In: Serums,facial oils,sunscreens,anti-aging products,hair products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – medium-chain triglyceride emollient

Secondary Functions: Active solubilizer,spreading agent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–50%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from coconut/palm kernel oil

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Fractionated by hydrolysis and re-esterification of coconut oil. only c8 and c10 fatty acids retained.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – very low; medium-chain length generally non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Mct oil's medium-chain length (c8/c10) provides superior oxidative stability vs longer polyunsaturated chains and better skin aesthetics (lighter, less greasy) vs longer chain emollients (c16/c18). excellent solubilizer for retinoic acid, tocopheryl esters, and other lipophilic actives.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the characteristic cosmetic function of its ingredient class through molecular chemistry at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Cetyl ethylhexanoate is selected for the specific functional properties of its molecular class — the chemical architecture of cetyl ethylhexanoate delivers the required cosmetic performance through documented interactions with skin biology and formulation matrix.

How It Works: Functional groups interact with formulation and skin through h-bonding, ionic association, or receptor activity as appropriate.

Typically Found In: Cosmetic formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Safety documented in cosing at standard formulation concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cetyl ethylhexanoate technical review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the complete fragrance profile contributing to product sensory experience and consumer appeal.

Why It's Used: Fragrance is a major consumer purchase driver — up to 70% of consumers make purchasing decisions partially based on product scent.

How It Works: Fragrance blends interact with olfactory receptors providing the sensory profile — complex mixtures activate multiple receptor types for rich, multidimensional scent experiences.

Typically Found In: All fragrance products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Standard use levels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ifra guidelines set usage limits for fragrance ingredients based on skin sensitisation and phototoxicity assessment for each application category.

Last Verified: Eu regulation 1223/2009 annex iii,ifra standards,fragrance allergen declaration requirements

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Smooths and softens skin by filling intercorneocyte spaces, reducing friction, and providing a pleasant aesthetic skin feel in formulations.

Why It's Used: Synthetic esters provide tailored aesthetic properties — spreadability, skin feel, volatility, refractive index — that natural oils alone cannot consistently deliver.

How It Works: The ester molecule fills microscopic surface irregularities between corneocytes, reducing coefficient of friction, reflecting light uniformly, and providing a lubrication layer that protects the skin surface.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,sunscreens,color cosmetics,body lotions,lip products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Synthetic emollients

Secondary Functions: Emollient

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1–20%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetically produced ester emollient; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1

Comedogenicity Rating: 1

Sensitivity Concerns: Low sensitization potential at recommended use concentrations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. generally non-irritating at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Silicones,uv filters,other emollients

Avoid Combining With: Strongly alkaline conditions (risk of saponification of ester-type emollients)

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The spreading coefficient of an emollient is governed by its surface tension, viscosity, and polarity. esters with branched alkyl chains (e.g., isopropyl, isostearyl) spread rapidly and leave a non-tacky film; linear long-chain esters provide more substantive moisturization. hlb value determines the preferred formulation system (w/o vs o/w emulsions).

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides o/w emulsification from peg-20 ethoxylation of triisostearate glyceride, with hlb ~12 enabling stable oil-in-water formulations with the emollient character of the glyceride contributing skin feel alongside surfactant function.

Why It's Used: Peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate is selected for peg-20 ethoxylated triisostearate hlb 12 emulsification — the peg chain length precisely tunes the hlb for o/w emulsion stability while the glyceride lipid moiety provides emollient co-contribution absent from conventional surfactant emulsifiers.

How It Works: Peg-20 chain: ether oxygen h-bonding → water miscibility; triisostearate glyceride tail → oil phase anchoring; hlb ~12 → o/w interface stabilisation.

Typically Found In: Emollient formulas,o/w emulsions

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – emollient

Secondary Functions: Barrier sealing,softening

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived, synthetic or animal-derived. verify source.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 1/5 – low; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Humectants,ceramides,actives as carrier

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Peg-glyceryl emulsifier eo chain length (peg-n) is the primary hlb tuning parameter — incrementing peg-n by 5 increases hlb by approximately 1 unit.

Last Verified: Cosing database,peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate peg-glyceryl emulsifier review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers characteristic cosmetic function at recommended use concentration.

Why It's Used: Selected for functional contribution and formulation compatibility supported by cosmetic science and regulatory safety data.

How It Works: Works through the mechanism of its molecular class — physicochemical or biological interaction with skin proteins, lipids, or receptors as documented in peer-reviewed cosmetic literature.

Typically Found In: Skin care formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Synthetic wax has an established safety and efficacy profile within the cosmetic regulatory framework at standard use concentrations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,synthetic wax technical literature

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides stable vitamin e delivery with antioxidant activity after esterase hydrolysis in skin.

Why It's Used: The formulation-stable vitamin e — tocopheryl acetate's ester protection prevents oxidative degradation during shelf life while releasing active tocopherol in skin for equivalent biological activity.

How It Works: Acetate ester blocks the phenolic oh group responsible for oxidation and radical scavenging. skin esterases cleave acetate bond releasing free tocopherol. released tocopherol provides lipid peroxyl radical scavenging in cell membranes. also provides direct emollient and skin conditioning.

Typically Found In: Moisturisers,sunscreens,anti-aging products — extremely widespread

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – stable vitamin e ester

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–5%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – natural from vegetable oils (soy, sunflower); synthetic dl-form

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: The d-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (natural isomer) is biologically superior to dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (racemic synthetic) for skin antioxidant activity. ingredient label d- vs dl- prefix identifies natural vs synthetic origin.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Tocopheryl acetate's conversion to active tocopherol in skin is quantitatively efficient: skin esterase activity is sufficient to cleave 60-80% of applied tocopheryl acetate within 24 hours of application. however, the conversion rate varies with skin condition (eczematous or barrier-compromised skin has reduced esterase activity), meaning tocopheryl acetate efficacy may be reduced precisely in the skin conditions that most need antioxidant support.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12