ASTALIFT Scalp Focus Conditioner

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most powerful natural antioxidant activity from the unique membrane-spanning ketocarotenoid.

Why It's Used: Maximum natural antioxidant — astaxanthin's unmatched singlet oxygen quenching capacity from marine microalgae provides superior photodamage prevention per unit applied.

How It Works: Unique spanning carotenoid structure crosses membrane bilayer quenching radicals at both inner and outer membrane surfaces simultaneously. singlet oxygen quenching kq ~3×10¹⁰ l/mol/s — highest of all carotenoids. 11 conjugated double bonds for exceptional electron transfer. inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity.

Typically Found In: Premium anti-aging serums,sunscreen boosters,photoprotection products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–0.2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from haematococcus pluvialis

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Astaxanthin's membrane-spanning structural uniqueness: its 3.6nm molecular length exactly spans a phospholipid bilayer membrane, allowing simultaneous quenching of radicals at both membrane surfaces. no other known antioxidant achieves this dual-surface protection — the structural basis for astaxanthin's extraordinary antioxidant potency.

Last Verified: Cosing database,naguib astaxanthin antioxidant comparison study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the most powerful natural antioxidant activity from the unique membrane-spanning ketocarotenoid.

Why It's Used: Maximum natural antioxidant — astaxanthin's unmatched singlet oxygen quenching capacity from marine microalgae provides superior photodamage prevention per unit applied.

How It Works: Unique spanning carotenoid structure crosses membrane bilayer quenching radicals at both inner and outer membrane surfaces simultaneously. singlet oxygen quenching kq ~3×10¹⁰ l/mol/s — highest of all carotenoids. 11 conjugated double bonds for exceptional electron transfer. inhibits nf-kb for anti-inflammatory activity.

Typically Found In: Premium anti-aging serums,sunscreen boosters,photoprotection products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–0.2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – from haematococcus pluvialis

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Astaxanthin's membrane-spanning structural uniqueness: its 3.6nm molecular length exactly spans a phospholipid bilayer membrane, allowing simultaneous quenching of radicals at both membrane surfaces. no other known antioxidant achieves this dual-surface protection — the structural basis for astaxanthin's extraordinary antioxidant potency.

Last Verified: Cosing database,naguib astaxanthin antioxidant comparison study

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides essential barrier sterol function as one of three critical stratum corneum lipid components.

Why It's Used: Essential component of complete barrier repair formulations – the stratum corneum barrier requires ceramides:cholesterol:fatty acids in approximately 1:1:1 molar ratio for complete barrier restoration.

How It Works: Integrates between ceramide headgroups in lamellar body structures, providing fluidity and flexibility to the otherwise rigid ceramide-dominated lipid matrix. controls lamellar body phase behavior for functional barrier.

Typically Found In: Barrier repair moisturizers,eczema treatments,dry skin formulations

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – barrier sterol

Secondary Functions: Lamellar body structure,barrier sterol

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–1%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – animal-derived (lanolin) or plant-derived phytosterol analogs; verify

Halal Status: Conditional – verify source

Source Notes: Traditionally from lanolin (wool grease). plant-derived cholesterol alternatives include phytosterols, though these show slightly different barrier integration. verify for vegan/halal.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Endogenous molecule; excellent tolerability.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Exceptional safety profile. natural skin component. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Other ceramides,cholesterol,free fatty acids,hyaluronic acid,niacinamide

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Elias demonstrated that barrier repair requires all three lipid classes (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) in approximately equimolar ratios. formulations providing only ceramides without cholesterol and fatty acids show significantly inferior barrier restoration vs complete triple-lipid combinations.

Last Verified: Cosing database,elias et al. barrier lipid ratio study,loden barrier repair review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Reduces surface tension at oil-water interfaces, enabling effective cleansing, emulsification, and formulation stability.

Why It's Used: Surface-active agents are essential for emulsification, cleansing, and stabilization of cosmetic formulations containing both aqueous and lipid phases.

How It Works: The amphiphilic molecular structure positions the hydrophilic head in water and the lipophilic tail in oils, creating micelles that solubilize sebum, dirt, and oil-soluble impurities for rinsing in cleansers or stable emulsions in leave-on products.

Typically Found In: Cleansers,shampoos,body washes,foaming treatments

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Surfactants

Secondary Functions: Emulsifying,cleansing

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5–30%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Synthetic or semi-synthetic surfactant; no animal components.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 2

Comedogenicity Rating: 0

Sensitivity Concerns: May cause irritation or stinging in sensitive or barrier-compromised skin at high concentrations; patch test recommended.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Conditional

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Well-characterized cosmetic ingredient with established safety profile. mildly irritating to some individuals at typical use concentrations. suitable for leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Works Well With: Other surfactants,thickeners,conditioning agents

Avoid Combining With: High concentrations in sensitive skin formulations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Surfactant critical micelle concentration (cmc) determines the threshold for emulsification: above the cmc, amphiphilic molecules self-assemble into micelles with hydrophobic cores that solubilize oils. hlb (hydrophile-lipophile balance) value predicts surfactant function: hlb 3–6 for w/o emulsifiers, 8–18 for o/w emulsifiers, >15 for solubilizers.

Last Verified: Cosing eu database; pcpc cosmetic ingredient safety reviews; ingredient-specific safety and efficacy literature

Primary Sources: 2025-01-15

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides the complete fragrance profile contributing to product sensory experience and consumer appeal.

Why It's Used: Fragrance is a major consumer purchase driver — up to 70% of consumers make purchasing decisions partially based on product scent.

How It Works: Fragrance blends interact with olfactory receptors providing the sensory profile — complex mixtures activate multiple receptor types for rich, multidimensional scent experiences.

Typically Found In: All fragrance products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – cosmetic active

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: Standard use levels

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Ifra guidelines set usage limits for fragrance ingredients based on skin sensitisation and phototoxicity assessment for each application category.

Last Verified: Eu regulation 1223/2009 annex iii,ifra standards,fragrance allergen declaration requirements

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Glycerin pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the outer skin layer (epidermis), boosting moisture levels and keeping skin soft, smooth, and plump.

Why It's Used: It is used in virtually every moisturizer, serum, and cleanser because it is highly effective at hydrating skin, is well-tolerated by all skin types, and enhances the texture and spreadability of formulations.

How It Works: As a humectant, glycerin forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, trapping them in the skin. it also reinforces the skin barrier by integrating into lipid structures between skin cells.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,cleansers,toners,sheet masks,sunscreens,body lotions,shampoos,conditioners

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Humectant

Secondary Functions: Skin barrier support,emollient,solvent

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 1%–30% (typical: 3–10%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (coconut, soy, palm) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – when plant-derived or synthetic; verify source with supplier

Source Notes: Derived from plant oils via hydrolysis or saponification; synthetic versions also available. palm-derived glycerin carries sustainability concerns.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; non-irritating at all standard concentrations

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Extremely rare allergic reactions; generally safe for all skin types including sensitive and baby skin

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Widely recognized as safe. ewg hazard score: 1. no significant concerns for irritation, sensitization, or toxicity at typical concentrations (up to 50%).

Works Well With: Hyaluronic acid,ceramides,niacinamide,panthenol,urea,peptides,retinol,ahas/bhas

Avoid Combining With: No known incompatibilities at standard concentrations

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Glycerin is an endogenous skin component found naturally in the stratum corneum. aquaporin-3 channels in keratinocytes facilitate glycerin transport, making it integral to natural skin hydration pathways.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,ewg skin deep,inci decoder

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides natural phospholipid emulsification with barrier-compatible delivery and liposome-forming properties.

Why It's Used: The most biologically authentic emulsifier – identical to cell membrane composition providing barrier-compatible delivery and liposome formation unavailable from synthetic emulsifiers.

How It Works: Phosphatidylcholine (pc), phosphatidylethanolamine (pe), phosphatidylinositol (pi) mixture provides hlb 7-12 for o/w emulsification. forms liposomal bilayers for active encapsulation. pc/pe/pi composition mirrors cell membrane for barrier-compatible delivery.

Typically Found In: Natural cosmetics,liposomal products,barrier repair,penetration-enhanced formulas

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – natural phospholipid emulsifier

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.5%–10%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Conditional – soy lecithin (vegan); egg lecithin (not vegan)

Halal Status: Conditional – soy (halal); egg (verify)

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Lecithin's phospholipid composition mirrors the composition of the stratum corneum's own lamellar bodies that deliver barrier lipids to the skin surface. this structural mimicry allows lecithin-based delivery systems to integrate seamlessly with the barrier lipid structure, exploiting the same transport pathway the skin uses for its own lipid secretion.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Prevents microbial contamination and spoilage in cosmetic formulations.

Why It's Used: The benchmark cosmetic preservative – eu-permitted up to 1%, effective against virtually all cosmetically relevant microorganisms, and excellent tolerability.

How It Works: Phenol ring provides broad antimicrobial activity via disruption of bacterial and fungal cell membranes and inhibition of enzymatic activity. effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts (candida), and molds (aspergillus). activity ph range: 3-9.

Typically Found In: All cosmetic formulations as primary preservative

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – broad-spectrum preservative

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (eu max 1%)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – synthetic

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Eu cosmetics regulation max 1%. sccs assessed as safe at ≤1%. avoid use around eyes in baby products per some country regulations. ewg score: 4.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Phenoxyethanol's widespread adoption as the primary cosmetic preservative followed the phaseout of parabens from many formulations in the 2000s-2010s. despite having a comparable or better safety profile to parabens, it is often cited in 'free-from' formulations – a consumer perception issue rather than a scientific safety concern.

Last Verified: Cosing database,sccs opinion on phenoxyethanol,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Provides film-forming conditioning and detangling with heat protection in a polymer that adsorbs substantively to hair.

Why It's Used: The most widely used cationic polymer conditioner – provides excellent conditioning and detangling while adsorbing strongly to damaged hair areas that need conditioning most.

How It Works: Cationic quaternary ammonium groups along the polymer backbone adsorb to anionic sites on hair keratin. higher charge density on damaged hair (more negative sites) leads to preferential adsorption where conditioning is needed. polymer film formation provides heat protection and volume.

Typically Found In: Shampoos,2-in-1 products,conditioners,styling products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Functional ingredient – cationic polymer conditioner

Secondary Functions: Skin conditioning

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–2%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – cellulose-derived

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Commercially produced for cosmetic use. verify vegan/halal status with supplier.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Well-tolerated by most skin types.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Good safety profile at recommended concentrations. ewg score: 1–2.

Works Well With: Standard skincare actives

Avoid Combining With: No known significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Polyquaternium-10's 'self-targeting' to damaged hair sites is a unique smart conditioning mechanism. as hair damage increases negative charge density by exposing keratin's aspartate and glutamate carboxylate groups, pq-10's cationic polymer backbone adsorbs preferentially to these high-charge damage sites – automatically delivering more conditioning where the hair needs it most.

Last Verified: Cosing database,robbins hair science,cir safety assessment

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Tocopherol neutralizes free radicals that damage skin cells, protects cell membranes from lipid peroxidation, moisturizes, and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

Why It's Used: It is used as both a skin-active antioxidant and a formulation stabilizer (preventing oxidation of other ingredients). it has decades of safety and efficacy evidence and works synergistically with vitamin c.

How It Works: As a chain-breaking antioxidant, tocopherol donates hydrogen atoms to interrupt lipid peroxidation chain reactions. it is regenerated by vitamin c (ascorbic acid) in the vitamins c+e antioxidant cycle, creating a more durable antioxidant defense.

Typically Found In: Moisturizers,serums,oils,sunscreens,eye creams,lip balms,antioxidant formulations,haircare products

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant/vitamin e

Secondary Functions: Emollient,formulation stabilizer,barrier support

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–1% (typical: 0.1–0.5% as active; higher as formulation antioxidant)

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes – plant-derived (soybean, sunflower, wheat germ oil) or synthetic

Halal Status: Yes – plant-derived or synthetic

Source Notes: Natural d-alpha-tocopherol is derived from plant oils and is more bioactive. synthetic dl-alpha-tocopherol is less expensive. tocopherol acetate (tocopheryl acetate) is the more stable ester form.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low; rare contact sensitivity reported

Comedogenicity Rating: 2/5 – mildly comedogenic at higher concentrations; formulation-dependent

Sensitivity Concerns: A small percentage of people report contact sensitization to tocopherol, particularly with leave-on products. comedogenicity risk is higher in oil-heavy formulations.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Generally yes; perform patch test if history of vitamin e sensitivity

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Very safe; widely used. ewg hazard score: 2–3 (depending on concentration). no significant systemic concerns from topical use.

Works Well With: Ascorbic acid (vitamin c) – synergistic antioxidant pair,ferulic acid – stabilizes and boosts both c and e,ceramides,spf,retinol

Avoid Combining With: Very high concentrations of benzoyl peroxide may oxidize tocopherol; potential comedogenicity concerns in acne-prone skin when in heavy oil bases

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

The combination of vitamin c, vitamin e, and ferulic acid (the 'ce ferulic' formulation) provides fourfold photoprotection against uv-induced free radical damage – a synergy documented in landmark research by pinnell et al.

Last Verified: Cosing database,cir safety assessment,pinnell et al. (2005) journal of investigative dermatology,efsa panel on food additives

Primary Sources: 2026-03-12