Retinoids and AHAs/BHAs are two powerful skincare ingredients renowned for their transformative effects on the skin. While each offers unique benefits, combining them can lead to irritation and diminish their effectiveness. Understanding why you shouldn’t mix retinoids with AHAs/BHAs is crucial for maintaining healthy, radiant skin.
Here’s everything you need to know about retinoids, AHAs/BHAs, and why using them together might not be the best approach for your skincare routine.
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, are celebrated for their ability to accelerate cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and acne. Common forms of retinoids include retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription-strength retinoic acid (tretinoin). Retinoids are often hailed as the gold standard in anti-aging and acne treatments.
What Are AHAs/BHAs?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are chemical exfoliants that help to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture.
- AHAs: These are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. Common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. They are effective in treating surface-level skin concerns such as dullness, fine lines, and uneven skin tone.
- BHAs: These are oil-soluble acids, with salicylic acid being the most well-known. BHAs penetrate deeper into the pores to remove excess oil and debris, making them ideal for acne-prone and oily skin.
The Benefits of Retinoids and AHAs/BHAs
Retinoids
- Boost Cell Turnover: Retinoids speed up the skin’s natural cell turnover process, revealing fresher, smoother skin.
- Stimulate Collagen Production: By promoting collagen synthesis, retinoids help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Treat Acne: Retinoids unclog pores and prevent new breakouts by keeping the skin clear and smooth.
- Improve Skin Texture and Tone: Regular use of retinoids can lead to more even skin tone and refined texture.
AHAs/BHAs
- Exfoliate the Skin: AHAs and BHAs remove dead skin cells, helping to prevent clogged pores and revealing brighter skin.
- Improve Skin Texture: By smoothing the skin’s surface, these acids can enhance the overall texture and appearance of the skin.
- Fade Hyperpigmentation: AHAs, in particular, are effective in reducing dark spots and pigmentation issues.
- Treat Acne: BHAs penetrate deep into the pores to clear out excess oil and debris, reducing the occurrence of acne.
Why You Shouldn’t Mix Retinoids and AHAs/BHAs
Increased Irritation and Sensitivity
Both retinoids and AHAs/BHAs are potent ingredients that can cause irritation, dryness, and redness when used alone. When combined, these effects can be significantly amplified, leading to excessive irritation and skin sensitivity. This can compromise the skin barrier, making it more susceptible to environmental damage and inflammation.
Over-Exfoliation
AHAs and BHAs are exfoliants that help to remove the outer layer of dead skin cells. Retinoids also promote cell turnover, which can lead to a similar exfoliating effect. Using both simultaneously can result in over-exfoliation, which can strip the skin of its natural oils, cause dryness, flakiness, and increase the risk of irritation and breakouts.
Diminished Effectiveness
The pH levels required for optimal activity of AHAs/BHAs and retinoids differ. AHAs and BHAs typically require a lower pH to be effective, while retinoids function best at a higher pH. Using them together can alter the pH balance of your skin, potentially reducing the efficacy of both ingredients.
Compromised Skin Barrier
A compromised skin barrier can lead to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin dry, irritated, and more prone to sensitivity. Mixing retinoids with AHAs/BHAs can weaken the skin barrier, leading to chronic dryness and irritation.
How to Incorporate Retinoids and AHAs/BHAs into Your Skincare Routine Safely
Alternate Nights
One of the safest ways to use both retinoids and AHAs/BHAs is to alternate their usage. For example, you can use a retinoid on one night and an AHA/BHA product on the next night. This allows your skin to benefit from both ingredients without overwhelming it.
Use at Different Times of the Day
Another approach is to use retinoids at night and AHAs/BHAs in the morning. Since retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, using them at night reduces the risk of sun damage. AHAs/BHAs can be applied in the morning, followed by a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin.
Incorporate Hydrating and Soothing Ingredients
When using potent active ingredients like retinoids and AHAs/BHAs, it’s important to support your skin with hydrating and soothing ingredients. Look for products containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, and peptides to help maintain your skin barrier and reduce the risk of irritation.
Gradual Introduction
If you’re new to using retinoids or AHAs/BHAs, introduce them gradually into your routine. Start with a lower concentration and increase usage frequency as your skin builds tolerance. This approach can help minimize irritation and allow your skin to adjust to these powerful ingredients.
Conclusion
While both retinoids and AHAs/BHAs offer impressive benefits for the skin, mixing them can lead to increased irritation, over-exfoliation, and diminished effectiveness. By understanding how to incorporate these ingredients safely into your skincare routine, you can enjoy their transformative effects without compromising your skin’s health.