Common Name(s): Triisostearoyl 3-glyceryl ascorbate,lipophilic ascorbate ester,oil-soluble vitamin c derivative,sc-penetrating antioxidant
CAS Number: N/a
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Delivers vitamin c antioxidant protection, tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, and collagen synthesis stimulation into the lipophilic sc environment — achieving delivery to deeper skin layers that water-soluble ascorbic acid cannot penetrate.
Why It's Used: Lipophilic vitamin c esters penetrate the sc 3–5× more deeply than sodium ascorbyl phosphate at equivalent concentration — the fatty acid chains providing sc lipid-phase partitioning that water-soluble ascorbate forms fundamentally lack.
How It Works: Esterase hydrolysis in the sc releases free l-ascorbic acid. the lipophilic ester (logp 3–8) partitions into sc lipid bilayers and deposits the ascorbate for local release. released ascorbic acid: reduces tyrosinase cu²⁺ (brightening, ic50 ~1 mm); provides prolyl hydroxylase cofactor for collagen triple-helix stability; scavenges lipid peroxyl radicals in sc lipid phase.
Typically Found In: Brightening,anti-aging,anhydrous vitamin c
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant
Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%–3%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Conditional - feedstock declaration required
Halal Status: Unverified - feedstock declaration required (plant, animal and petrochemical routes all exist)
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic. [audit 2026-07-29 rev2: origin-dependent: the same inci exists in plant, animal and petrochemical versions and the name does not discriminate. determination requires shariah-panel sign-off.]
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Lipophilic ascorbate esters require esterase activity for activation — significant inter-individual variation in skin esterase levels means clinical response varies; higher concentrations or delivery vehicle optimisation compensates for variable hydrolysis efficiency.
Last Verified: 2026-03-22
Primary Sources: Cosing database,triisostearoyl 3-glyceryl ascorbate lipophilic ascorbate anti-aging review