Common Name(s): Methyl acetylglycyrrhetinoyl hydroxyprolinate,methyl acetylglycyrrhetinoyl hydroxyprolinate,glycyrrhetinic acid-hydroxyproline conjugate,anti-inflammatory collagen-targeting active
CAS Number: N/a
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Provides glycyrrhetinic acid's 11-beta-hsd1 anti-inflammatory inhibition delivered specifically to the collagen matrix through hydroxyproline's collagen molecular recognition โ targeted anti-inflammatory activity at the dermal matrix site.
Why It's Used: Conjugation of glycyrrhetinic acid with hydroxyproline provides tissue-targeted anti-inflammatory delivery โ the hydroxyproline's collagen matrix affinity concentrating the anti-inflammatory active at the primary ageing tissue target.
How It Works: Hydroxyproline (3s,4r-4-hydroxyproline) binds collagen hydroxyl-proline pockets through the imino nitrogen + hydroxyl h-bonding network โ collagen matrix concentration of the conjugate. the ester bond releases glycyrrhetinic acid at the collagen surface โ local 11ฮฒ-hsd1 inhibition โ reduced cortisol-mediated collagen degradation in the dermis.
Typically Found In: Anti-inflammatory,anti-aging,targeted delivery
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient โ antioxidant
Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%โ1%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Yes
Halal Status: Yes
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 โ very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 โ non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
11-beta-hsd1 in dermis: dermal fibroblasts express 11ฮฒ-hsd1 at high levels โ local cortisol excess from 11ฮฒ-hsd1 upregulation in aged skin drives collagen degradation and impairs fibroblast proliferation. targeted 11ฮฒ-hsd1 inhibition at the collagen surface provides precision anti-aging at the primary degradation site.
Last Verified: 2026-03-22
Primary Sources: Cosing database,methyl acetylglycyrrhetinoyl hydroxyprolinate anti-inflammatory collagen targeting review