Common Name(s): Liquiritin apioside,liquiritin apioside,licorice chalcone glycoside,brightening anti-inflammatory
CAS Number: N/a
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Provides brightening through a unique melanin isomerisation mechanism — redirecting eumelanin (dark) synthesis toward pheomelanin (light/yellow) rather than inhibiting tyrosinase, providing brightening through a mechanism completely different from competitive tyrosinase inhibitors.
Why It's Used: Liquiritin apioside's melanin isomerisation mechanism is unique — unlike tyrosinase inhibitors that reduce total melanin, liquiritin apioside redirects existing melanin synthesis toward lighter-coloured pheomelanin, providing brightening without depleting skin's protective photoabsorbing capacity.
How It Works: Liquiritin apioside → skin beta-glycosidase → liquiritin → aglycone liquiritigenin → chalcone open-ring form. chalcone: competes with dopa at the tyrosinase oxidation site but instead of inhibiting, directs dopa oxidation toward pheomelanin (yellow-light) pathway rather than eumelanin (dark-brown) pathway. the isomerisation shifts melanin type without reducing total production.
Typically Found In: Brightening,anti-inflammatory,sensitive brightening
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient – antioxidant
Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.01%–1%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Yes
Halal Status: Yes
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 – very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 – non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Liquiritin apioside vs glabridin: glabridin provides tyrosinase competitive inhibition (reduced total melanin); liquiritin apioside provides melanin type isomerisation (lighter melanin). combined provides dual-mechanism brightening — reduced melanin quantity and lighter melanin quality.
Last Verified: 2026-03-22
Primary Sources: Cosing database,liquiritin apioside licorice chalcone melanin isomerisation review