Back to Ingredient Dictionary
Common Name(s): 3beta-hydroxy-lup-20(29)-en-28-oic acid,betulin acid
CAS Number: 472-15-1
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Provides melanoma-selective anti-tumor and anti-hiv antiviral activity from birch bark betulinic acid.
Why It's Used: Melanoma-targeting birch active โ betulinic acid's selective melanoma cell apoptosis induction (while sparing normal melanocytes) provides a unique skin-specific anti-tumor mechanism from birch bark.
How It Works: Selectively induces apoptosis in melanoma cells via mitochondrial pathway (activation of bcl-2 family members) while sparing non-melanoma cells. anti-hiv via hiv-1 integrase inhibition. anti-inflammatory via nf-kb inhibition. antimicrobial vs s. aureus and mycobacterium.
Typically Found In: Anti-melanoma support skincare,anti-aging products,birch botanical skincare
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient โ antioxidant
Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%โ2%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Yes โ from birch (betula pendula/papyrifera) bark
Halal Status: Yes
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 โ very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 โ non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Betulinic acid's melanoma selectivity (inducing apoptosis specifically in melanoma cells vs normal melanocytes) was extensively studied for pharmaceutical anticancer development (inca-x, nci investigation). the selectivity arises from melanoma cells' unique mitochondrial membrane composition that sensitises them to betulinic acid's mitochondrial apoptosis pathway โ a tumor-specific metabolic vulnerability exploited by this birch bark triterpene.
Last Verified: 2026-03-12
Primary Sources: Cosing database,kessler et al. betulinic acid anti-melanoma study