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Common Name(s): 3-o-cetyl ascorbic acid,3-o-cetyl ascorbic acid,lipophilic ascorbate derivative,oil-phase vitamin c active

CAS Number: N/a

DESCRIPTION

What It Does: Delivers vitamin c antioxidant, brightening, and collagen-synthesis activity into the sc lipid environment โ€” achieving deeper skin delivery than water-soluble ascorbate forms through sc lipid-phase partitioning.

Why It's Used: Lipophilic vitamin c esters penetrate the sc 3-5ร— more deeply than sodium ascorbyl phosphate โ€” the fatty ester chains providing sc lipid-phase compatibility that water-soluble ascorbate fundamentally lacks.

How It Works: Skin esterases/lipases hydrolyse the fatty acid ester releasing free ascorbic acid in situ. the lipophilic precursor (logp >5) partitions into sc lipid bilayers depositing ascorbate locally for: tyrosinase cuยฒโบ reduction (ic50 ~1 mm brightening); prolyl/lysyl hydroxylase cofactor (collagen triple helix); lipid peroxyl radical interception (antioxidant in the lipid phase).

Typically Found In: Brightening,anti-aging,anhydrous vitamin c

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Primary Category: Active ingredient โ€“ antioxidant

Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging

Application Areas:

Facial Skincare

Body Care

Hair Care

Beard Care

Color Cosmetics (Makeup)

Dietary/Oral Supplements

Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%โ€“3%

SOURCING & ETHICS

Vegan Status: Yes

Halal Status: Yes

Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.

SKIN COMPATIBILITY

Irritancy Rating: 1/5 โ€“ very low

Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 โ€“ non-comedogenic

Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.

Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes

SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY

Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.

Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants

Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities

SCIENTIFIC NOTE

Oil-soluble vitamin c is preferred in anhydrous and silicone-phase formulations โ€” provides antioxidant protection in lipid-based products where water-soluble ascorbate cannot distribute.

Last Verified: Cosing database,3-o-cetyl ascorbic acid lipophilic ascorbate review

Primary Sources: 2026-03-22