Common Name(s): 3-ascorbyl carbonyl dipeptide-17,3-ascorbyl carbonyl dipeptide-17,lipophilic ascorbate derivative,oil-phase vitamin c active
CAS Number: N/a
DESCRIPTION
What It Does: Delivers vitamin c antioxidant, brightening, and collagen-synthesis activity into the sc lipid environment โ achieving deeper skin delivery than water-soluble ascorbate forms through sc lipid-phase partitioning.
Why It's Used: Lipophilic vitamin c esters penetrate the sc 3-5ร more deeply than sodium ascorbyl phosphate โ the fatty ester chains providing sc lipid-phase compatibility that water-soluble ascorbate fundamentally lacks.
How It Works: Skin esterases/lipases hydrolyse the fatty acid ester releasing free ascorbic acid in situ. the lipophilic precursor (logp >5) partitions into sc lipid bilayers depositing ascorbate locally for: tyrosinase cuยฒโบ reduction (ic50 ~1 mm brightening); prolyl/lysyl hydroxylase cofactor (collagen triple helix); lipid peroxyl radical interception (antioxidant in the lipid phase).
Typically Found In: Brightening,anti-aging,anhydrous vitamin c
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Primary Category: Active ingredient โ antioxidant
Secondary Functions: Free radical scavenging,anti-aging
Application Areas:
Facial Skincare
Body Care
Hair Care
Beard Care
Color Cosmetics (Makeup)
Dietary/Oral Supplements
Typical Concentration Range: 0.1%โ3%
SOURCING & ETHICS
Vegan Status: Yes
Halal Status: Yes
Source Notes: Plant-derived extract or synthetic.
SKIN COMPATIBILITY
Irritancy Rating: 1/5 โ very low
Comedogenicity Rating: 0/5 โ non-comedogenic
Sensitivity Concerns: Non-irritating; well-tolerated.
Safe for Sensitive Skin: Yes
SAFETY & COMPATIBILITY
Safety Profile: Excellent safety profile. ewg score: 1.
Works Well With: Vitamin c,vitamin e,ferulic acid,spf,other antioxidants
Avoid Combining With: No significant incompatibilities
SCIENTIFIC NOTE
Oil-soluble vitamin c is preferred in anhydrous and silicone-phase formulations โ provides antioxidant protection in lipid-based products where water-soluble ascorbate cannot distribute.
Last Verified: Cosing database,3-ascorbyl carbonyl dipeptide-17 lipophilic ascorbate review
Primary Sources: 2026-03-22