Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a group of exfoliating acids that offer gentle and effective exfoliation, making them ideal for sensitive skin. Known for their larger molecular structure, PHAs provide the benefits of exfoliation without the irritation often associated with other acids.
Here’s everything you need to know about PHAs and why they should be a part of your skincare regimen.
What are PHAs?
PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids, are a type of chemical exfoliant similar to alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) but with a larger molecular structure. This larger structure allows PHAs to penetrate the skin more slowly, providing gentle exfoliation without causing irritation. Common PHAs include gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, and galactose.
The Science Behind PHAs
Gentle Exfoliation
PHAs work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily removed from the skin’s surface. This gentle exfoliation helps to reveal fresher, smoother skin underneath. Because PHAs penetrate the skin slowly, they are less likely to cause irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin.
Hydration
PHAs are also humectants, which means they attract and retain moisture in the skin. This dual action of exfoliation and hydration helps keep the skin soft, supple, and well-moisturized, improving overall skin health.
Improved Skin Texture
Regular use of PHAs can significantly improve skin texture. By removing dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover, PHAs help to smooth rough patches and refine the skin’s surface, resulting in a more even and radiant complexion.
Antioxidant Properties
PHAs have antioxidant properties that help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radical damage. This protection helps to maintain a youthful, healthy complexion and supports the skin’s natural repair processes.
Brightening Effect
PHAs can help brighten the skin by reducing the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Their exfoliating properties help to fade discoloration, leading to a more uniform skin tone.
Things to Consider Before Incorporating PHAs into Your Routine
Skin Types
Sensitive Skin: PHAs are particularly beneficial for sensitive skin due to their gentle exfoliating properties. They help to smooth and brighten the skin without causing irritation.
Dry Skin: Those with dry skin can also benefit from PHAs, as they provide gentle exfoliation and hydration.
Aging Skin: PHAs’ ability to promote cell turnover and provide antioxidant protection makes them beneficial for aging skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Application Tips
Layering: Apply PHA-based products after cleansing and before moisturizing to maximize their exfoliating and hydrating benefits.
Sun Protection: PHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always use sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.
Complementary Ingredients: PHAs work well with hydrating and soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides. These combinations can enhance overall skin health and minimize irritation.
Avoiding Conflicts: Avoid using PHAs with other strong exfoliants or acid treatments simultaneously, as this can cause excessive irritation. Instead, alternate their use to prevent over-exfoliation.
Storage and Quality
Proper Storage: Store PHA products in a cool, dark place to maintain their potency. Ensure the container is tightly sealed to prevent contamination.
Source and Purity: Choose products with high-quality, pure PHAs. Look for labels that specify the concentration and source of the PHAs, as these factors can affect the product’s effectiveness.
Frequency of Use
Moderation: While PHAs are beneficial, using them in moderation is key. Start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. Incorporate them into your routine 2-3 times per week, depending on your skin’s needs.
Best Ways to Incorporate PHAs into Your Routine
1. Cleanser
PHA Cleanser: Use a PHA cleanser to gently exfoliate and cleanse your skin. Apply to damp skin, massage in circular motions, and rinse thoroughly. Use 2-3 times a week to start, then adjust frequency based on your skin’s tolerance.
2. Toner
PHA Toner: Apply a PHA toner after cleansing to further exfoliate and prep your skin for other treatments. Use a cotton pad to sweep the toner across your face and neck, avoiding the eye area.
3. Serum
PHA Serum: Use a PHA serum after cleansing and toning. Apply a few drops to your face and neck, gently patting it in. Follow with a hydrating serum and moisturizer to lock in moisture.
4. Face Mask
Exfoliating Face Mask: Use a PHA-infused face mask once a week for a more intensive treatment. Apply the mask to clean skin and leave it on for the recommended time before rinsing off.
5. Night Cream
PHA Night Cream: Incorporate a PHA night cream into your evening routine. This allows your skin to absorb the exfoliating and hydrating benefits overnight, leaving you with smoother, refreshed skin in the morning.
PHAs are a versatile and powerful ingredient that can benefit sensitive and dry skin types. By providing gentle exfoliation, improving skin texture, and offering antioxidant protection, PHAs help to keep your skin smooth, clear, and radiant. Incorporate PHA-based products into your daily skincare routine to enjoy their numerous benefits and achieve a glowing complexion.